Triton 2000 Serie Instrucciones De Funcionamiento página 77

MITRE CUTTING TO A LENGTH STOP
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If you are making square or rectangular frames, cut all of your pieces to a length stop to ensure that
each frame comes out perfectly square, with tight corners. Your protractor must be set at exactly 45
CUTTING SHARP POINTS OR WEDGES
Sharp stakes, pegs or wedges can be safely cut on the Workcentre by using the long face of the
protractor - set at say 10
You must use an extended sub-fence
support - especially after the first cut. Also your fingers would have to pass too close to the blade for
safety without the sub-fence.
Use pencil line
for reference
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19 x 45mm (2" x 1") on edge is an ideal size for a sub-fence. Chamfer or rebate the end to allow full
height adjustment for the overhead guard.
Adjust the overhead guard so the workpiece just passes underneath and keep the blade as low as
possible. Lower the blade to below table level and rehearse this cut without power to confirm your
hand positions.
Be careful of the small wedge-shaped off-cuts. They can vibrate into the blade and become re-cut or
flung out, or they can become wedged in the table slot beside the blade. Keep a stick handy to
move them away from the blade after each cut. If one becomes wedged in the slot, stop cutting,
switch off, and wait until the blade stops completely before removing the jammed off-cut.
O - and making two or four cuts, turning the wood over after the each cut.
, because the protractor face does not give sufficient
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To ensure perfect length accuracy when mitre cutting,
fit an extension sub-fence (or two) to the protractor,
and clamp a mitred block to one of them.
Cut the first mitre against the face which does not
have the stop, and then place the mitred end against
the stop block, for the reverse angle mitre. Both cuts
can thus be made with the moulded face upwards, for
less visible splintering.
Grip the workpieces firmly because there is a
tendency for them to "creep". It's a good idea to glue
sandpaper to the face of the sub-fence(s).
Preferably butt the far end of the workpiece up against
a stop block attached to the sub-fence. It ensures the
points will be central without measuring, marking or
sighting up, and makes it easier to hold the
workpiece. If the workpiece is too long to fit a sub-
fence and stop block, you can sight up cuts by using a
line squared around each workpiece - say 100 mm in
from the end - and referencing it to a pencil mark on
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the sub-fence.
If the workpiece is heavy, or over about 750mm long,
cut it in the crosscut mode.
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