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Pull the plunge lock lever (4) up.
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Plunge the router down until the router bit touches the
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workpiece.
Push the plunge lock lever (4) down.
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Move the pointer (29) in the zero position on the scale (10).
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Add the desired depth of cut to the starting position.
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Move the depth stop bar (9) to the calculated position on
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the scale.
Tighten the locking screw (28).
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Fine adjust using the adjusting knob (30).
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Pull the plunge lock lever (4) up and let the router return to
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its original position.
After switching the router on, plunge it down and make the
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desired cut.
Adjusting the depth of cut using a piece of wood (fig. J)
Fit the router bit and plunge the router down as described
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above.
Pull the depth stop bar (9) up.
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Place a piece of wood with a thickness equal to the
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desired depth of cut between the depth stop (27) and the
depth stop bar (9).
Tighten the locking screw (28).
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Fine adjust using the adjusting knob (30).
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Remove the piece of wood.
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Pull the plunge lock lever (4) up and let the router return to
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its original position.
After switching the router on, plunge it down and make the
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desired cut.
Adjusting the revolver depth stop (fig. K)
After turning the revolver depth stop to the desired setting, you
can fine-adjust the depth stop to be used. If you want to make
several cuts with a different depth of cut, adjust each of the
depth stops.
Turn the depth stop screw (31) up or down as required
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using a screwdriver.
Setting the speed
Set the speed control knob (3) to the required speed.
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Use a high speed for small diameter router bits. Use a low
speed for large diameter router bits.
Using a batten as a guide (fig. L)
When it is not possible to use the edge guide, for example
when routing grooves in the back panel of a bookcase to
support shelves, proceed as follows:
Select a piece of wood with a straight edge to use as
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a batten.
Place the batten onto the workpiece.
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Move the batten until it is in the correct position to guide
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the tool.
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Securely clamp the batten to the workpiece.
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Using the template guide (fig. D)
The template guide can be used to make a cutout shape from
a template, for instance a letter.
Secure the template over the workpiece with double-sided
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tape or 'G' clamps.
The router bit must extend below the flange of the
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template guide, to cut the workpiece in the shape of the
template.
Using the distance piece (fig. E)
The distance piece can be used for trimming wooden or
laminate vertical projections.
Using the centring pin (fig. F)
The centring pin can be used to cut out circular patterns.
Drill a hole for the point of the centring pin in the centre of
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the circle to be cut.
Place the router on the workpiece with the point of the
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centring pin in the drilled hole.
Adjust the radius of the circle with the bars of the edge guide.
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The router can now be moved over the workpiece to cut
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out the circle.
Using the copy follower (fig. G)
The copy follower helps to maintain an equal cutting distance
along the edge of irregularly shaped workpieces.
Place the router on the workpiece at the desired distance
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from the edge to be copied.
Adjust the bars of the edge guide until the wheel is in
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contact with the workpiece.
Switching on and off
Switching on
Keep the lock-off button (2) depressed and press the on/
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off switch (1).
Release the lock-off button.
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Switching off
Release the on/off switch.
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Warning! Always operate the tool with both hands.
Hints for optimum use
When working on outside edges, move the tool
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counterclockwise (fig. M). When working on inside edges,
move the tool clockwise.
Use HSS router bits for softwood.
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Use TCT router bits for hardwood.
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You can use the tool without a guide (fig. N). This is useful
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for signwriting and creative work. Only make shallow cuts.
Refer to the table below for common types of router bits.
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