Maktec MT111 Manual De Instrucciones página 7

and equidistant from the housing on one side and the
metal bracket on the other.
8. Tighten the three hex flange head bolts (with the
socket wrench provided) and rotate the drum to check
clearances between the blade ends and the tool body.
9. Check the three hex flange head bolts for final
tightness.
10. Repeat procedures 1 - 9 for other blade.
Correct setting
Nicks in surface
Gouging at start
Gouging at end
(A) Front base (Movable shoe)
(B) Rear base (Stationary shoe)
EN0004-1
Connecting a vacuum cleaner
For tools with (round) chip cover (Fig. 8 & 9)
When you wish to perform clean planing operation,
connect a Makita vacuum cleaner to your tool as shown in
the figure.
For tools with (non-round) chip cover (Fig. 10)
Any Makita vacuum cleaner cannot be connected to the
tool with the (non-round) chip cover.
OPERATION
CAUTION:
• Hold the tool firmly with one hand on the knob and the
other hand on the switch handle when performing the
tool.
Planing operation (Fig. 11)
First, rest the tool front base flat upon the workpiece
surface without the blades making any contact. Switch on
and wait until the blades attain full speed. Then move the
tool gently forward. Apply pressure on the front of tool at
the start of planing, and at the back at the end of planing.
Planing will be easier if you incline the workpiece in
stationary fashion, so that you can plane somewhat
downhill.
The speed and depth of cut determine the kind of finish.
The power planer keeps cutting at a speed that will not
result in jamming by chips. For rough cutting, the depth of
For the correct planer blade setting
Your planing surface will end up rough and uneven,
unless the blade is set properly and securely. The blade
must be mounted so that the cutting edge is absolutely
level, that is, parallel to the surface of the rear base.
Below are some examples of proper and improper
settings.
(A)
(B)
(A)
(B)
(A)
(B)
cut can be increased, while for a good finish you should
reduce the depth of cut and advance the tool more slowly.
Shiplapping (Rabbeting) (Optional
accessory) (Fig. 12)
To make a stepped cut as shown in the figure, use the
edge fence (guide rule).
CAUTION:
• The blade edge should be made to protrude outside
slightly (0.3 mm - 0.6 mm). Otherwise, nicks and
generally poor shiplapping results. (Fig. 13 & 14)
Draw a cutting line on the workpiece. Insert the edge
fence into the hole in the front of the tool. Align the blade
edge with the cutting line. (Fig. 15)
Adjust the edge fence until it comes in contact with the
side of the workpiece, then secure it by tightening the
screw.
When planing, move the tool with the edge fence flush
with the side of the workpiece. Otherwise uneven planing
may result.
Maximum shiplapping (rabbeting) depth is 20 mm.
You may wish to add to the length of the fence by
attaching an extra piece of wood. Convenient holes are
provided in the fence for this purpose.
Although this side view cannot
show it, the edges of the blades run
perfectly parallel to the rear base
surface.
Cause: One or both blades fails to
have edge parallel to rear
base line.
Cause: One or both blade edges
fails to protrude enough in
relation to rear base line.
Cause: One or both blade edges
protrudes too far in relation
to rear base line.
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