INSTALLATION CHECKLIST - PREPARATIONS
Check the carton contents (figure 1) and read the instructions carefully.
Make sure your gate equipment operates perfectly. The gate must run
evenly and smoothly and must not stick at any point. Remember that the
ground level may be several centimeters higher in winter. The gate must
be stable and as free of backlash as possible in order to prevent any
unwanted to and fro movement. The more smoothly the gate leaf runs,
the more sensitive the force adjustment must be.
Note down any materials you still need and obtain them before starting
to install. Heavy-duty plugs, bolts, gate stops, cables, distribution boxes,
tools, etc.
GATE TYPES
The gate type (figure 2) determines the location where the drive
mechanism is installed. If the gate stop is on the ground, the drive
mechanism must also be installed at a height that is as low as possible
so that it cannot twist the gate. Use only parts of the gate frame for
fixing purposes.
For steel gates, the gate fitting must be attached to the main frame. If
you are uncertain whether the available support is sufficiently stable,
reinforce it.
In the case of wooden gates, the gate fitting must be through bolted. It is
advisable to fit a plate from the outside so that the fixing brackets cannot
become loose over time. Thin wooden gates must also be reinforced in
order to withstand the stresses encountered.
GATE SITUATION
The gate drive mechanism is suitable for use in conjunction with pillars
with a max. thickness of 30cm. The amount of room around the pier
affects the opening angle and the position of the arms (figure 4).
The drive mechanism is equipped with built-in limit stops for both the
OPEN and CLOSE directions. A different opening angle can be set for
the left-hand wing as compared with the right-hand one.
GATE STOPS
A SWING GATE NEEDS A FIXED GATE STOP IN BOTH THE OPEN
AND CLOSE DIRECTIONS. Gate stops save wear and tear on the drive
mechanism, gate and fittings. Operating a gate without fixed limit stops
results in poor performance. It is often dangerous, leads to premature
wear in the case of heavy gates often exposed to wind stress.
ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION
We recommend the use of control unit CB11.
N = neutral (blue)
L1 = OPEN or CLOSE (must be swapped around, as required).
The cable leading from and to the control unit must be suitable for laying
outdoors and, if required, run through ducts.
230 volt wiring and low-voltage lines may not be run via the same cable.
Generally speaking, the following minimum cable cross-sectional
areas must be adhered to:
100-230Volt
1.5mm
2
or more
0-24Volt
0.5mm
2
or more
OPENING DRIVE
The release lock for the casing is located under the rubber waterproof
cover. Use the socket spanner supplied in the hardware bag to lift the
cover up. A type 1 Phillips screwdriver (small) is required if the drive
hood needs to be dismantled. The drive hood can be taken off once the
4 screws have been removed. Now the drive can be unscrewed from the
base plate (4x lock screws) (figure 6-8).
RELEASING DRIVE FOR MANUAL OPERATION
The release lock for the casing is located under the rubber waterproof
cover. Use the socket spanner supplied in the hardware bag to lift the
cover up. The release key located beneath the hood should be inserted
into the side openings and turned approx. 180 degrees until it cannot
turn any further. The drive has now been released. To re-engage it, the
key should be turned back to its original position (figure 11).
Take care when unlatching the drive for manual operation. The door
leaf can move in an uncontrolled way, especially if it is defective and
not properly balanced.
NSTALLATION OF THE UNIT
1. Mount the arms on the motor (Fig. 5). Switch to manual operation by
inserting and turning the hexagonal key provided (Fig. 11).
2. Select and mark the mounting height on the pier (Fig. 4+5).
3. The side of the gate mounted to the pier should be stable. If
necessary, it should be reinforced, e.g. with a metal frame. Make sure
that the screws used are long enough to ensure stable mounting.
Ensure that there is enough room (Fig. 4+9).
4. Finding the right mounting position. Mount the drive on the pier and
attach it to the gate. The drive exerts a great amount of force on the
pier. A steel pier will provide the most stability. Welding the supplied
hinge plate directly on to the pier will generally provide enough room
for mount. In the case of thick brick or concrete pillars, the hinge
plate should be welded onto a support plate, that is mounted in such
a way that the plugs cannot work loose. Adhesive shear connectors
are better than steel or plastic wedge anchors for this purpose. A
threaded rod is then mounted into the masonry with a stress free
adhesive seal. A watertight distribution unit should be mounted on the
pier next to the hinge plate. The feed cable for the wing gate opener
is led into this unit from underneath.
Several openings for the cable have been pre-punched in the base and
need only be broken through, as required. The drive must be standing
on a solid surface for the purposes of breaking the holes through to
prevent the PVC base plate from breaking. A small, flat screwdriver
should be used for breaking the holes through. For this purpose, tap on
the screwdriver handle with the palm of the hand from the inside.
Repeat this as necessary at several points on the pre-marked circle.
The pre-punched area can then be easily removed and the strain relief
supplied as standard fitted in its place.
Once the pier plate has been mounted, the drive can then be fitted. The
drives can be used left or right without requiring conversion. For the
purposes of fitting the drive, the lock screws need to be re-inserted and
tightened up.
GATE FITTING
For steel gates, fixings should be welded on or through bolted. When
through bolting the gate, use large washers or a plate on the other side.
The drive mechanism exerts an extremely high force on this joint.
Fixings must be through bolted for wooden gates. Wood deflects under
load and the bolt will become loose. Due to movement caused by
repeated loading, the wood deflects more and more until the gate no
longer closes correctly and has to be repaired.
The arm should not be mounted while fully extended (see Fig. 4). The
drive is self-locking. The unit should be mounted with an offset of about
90 degrees. If the arm's point of contact is further to the outside, it will
require less room at the side but it will be harder to drive. Mount the
drive provisionally (e.g. with finger-tight thumb-screws), and check the
mounting position by opening the gate manually.