Switching On And Off - Felisatti PF180/1500 Instrucciones De Servicio

if required.
2. Slide the good blade face up into the blade support
block of the blade barrel (10).
NOTE: If only one blade is damaged, it can be
replaced without the need to replace the other two blades.
When blades are worn, all three blades must be replaced
as a set to prevent unbalanced operation, dangerous
vibration and possible damage of the power tool.
NOTE: The ridge along the blade should be on the
blade face on the opposite side to the clamping screws
(11).
3. Tighten the clamping screws (11), ensuring they
are tightened evenly. First tighten the two outside clamping
screws, then the next two screws, and at last tighten the
middle screw. (Fig. 7)
4. Repeat for the remaining blades.
WARNING: When installing blades, first
clean out all chips or foreign matter adhering
to the blade barrel (10) and the blades
themselves. Use blades of the same
dimensions and weight, or the barrel will
oscillate and vibrate causing poor planing
action and possibly a machine breakdown.
Tighten the clamping screws (11) carefully
when attaching the blades to the planer. A
loose clamping screw could be extremely
dangerous. Regularly check to see if they are
tightened securely.
WARNING: The planer is designed so that
the blades are correctly aligned if placed
flush into the barrel slots and tightened
correctly. When inserting new blades it is
essential that they sit square in their slot, that
they are fully inserted and that the cutting
edges are absolutely level, i.e. parallel to the
surface of the rear base (13). Only when all
these conditions are satisfied should the
clamping screws be tightened. If the blades
protrude or are not square, they could hit the
casing with serious risk to the operator and
others in the vicinity. Blade must be
positioned centrally on the drum. (Fig. 8)
NOTE: Your planing surface will end up rough and
uneven unless the blades are set and secured properly.
The examples show proper and improper settings:
▪▪ Clean smooth cut: (Fig.9)
▪▪ Nicks in surface – as caused by the edge of one
or all blades not being parallel to the rear base line.
(Fig.10)
▪▪ Gouging at start – as caused by the edge of one
or all blades not protruding enough in relation to the rear
base line. (Fig.11)
▪▪ Gouging at end – as caused by the edge of one
or all blades protruding too far in relation to the rear base
line. (Fig.12)
NOTE:
(a) Front base (movable shoe) (12)
(b) Fixed rear base (stationary shoe) (13)

SWITCHING ON AND OFF

WARNING: Before plugging the machine into
the power point always check that the trigger
switch (1) and lock-off button (2) work
properly. Before switching on ensure that the
blade drum is not in contact with any surface.
1. Plug in the machine, push in the lock-off button (2)
and pull the trigger switch (1). (Fig. 13)
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2. To stop the tool, simply release the trigger switch
(1).
3. In order to restart the machine, it is necessary to
operate both the lock-off button (2) and the trigger switch
(1). This is an important safety feature that helps prevent
accidental operation of the planer. (Fig.1 4)
WARNING: Please note that that the planer
blades continue to spin for some time after
switching off the planer. Wait until the motor
has completely stopped before setting down
the tool to prevent damage to the planer
blades or the surface. If you wish to rest the
planer on its side, do not rest it on the side
with the vents to prevent dust or chips from
getting into the motor.
4. When the planer is not to be used for a short period,
set the depth control knob (3) to the "P" position and rest
the front of the planer on a block of wood to keep the base
clear of the surface.
PLANING
1. Rest the front base (12) flat on the workpiece
surface without the blades making any contact with the
workpiece.
2. Switch on the tool and wait for the blades to reach
full speed.
3. Move the tool gently forward, applying pressure on
the front of the tool, using your hand on the front handle (5)
at the start of planing and pressure at the rear of the tool,
using your hand on the main handle (4) towards the end of
the planing stroke.
4. Push the planer beyond the edge of the workpiece
without tilting it downwards.
5. The rate of planing and the depth of cut determine
the quality of the finish. For rough cutting, you can increase
the depth of cut, however to achieve a good finish you will
need to reduce the depth of cut and advance the tool more
slowly.
NOTE: Planing is easier if you incline the workpiece
slightly away from you so that you plane "downhill".
WARNING: Moving the machine too fast may
cause a poor quality of cut and can damage
the blades or the motor. Moving the machine
too slowly may burn or mar the cut.
The proper feed rate will depend on the type of
material being cut and the depth of the cut.
Practice first on a scrap piece of material to gauge the
correct feed rate and the cut dimensions.
WARNING: Always use two hands to hold the
planer. Where possible, clamp the workpiece
to the bench.
CHAMFERING
1. To make a chamfered cut as shown in Fig. 15. First
align the "V" groove (Fig. 16) in the front base (12) of the
planer with the corner edge of the workpiece.
2. Run the planer along the corner edge.
COMBINED PARALLEL AND BEVEL FENCE
GUIDE
WARNING: Always ensure that the tool is
switched off and unplugged from the power
supply
before making adjustments, installing or
removing
blades.
1. Fit the fence guide (14) to the base by screwing the
knobs (7) into the fixing points (8). (Fig. 17)
2. Loosen the two wing nuts and set the angle of the