When cutting a board between 3.9" (3-7/8") and 5.5"
(5-1/2") in width the roller on the tip of the guard will hang
up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right
thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up
just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in Figure 25.
Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the
guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider
than 3.9" (3-7/8") standing vertically against the fence as in
Figure 22, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1
inch from the end of the board. Trying to cut more than an
inch will cause the saw's gear case to interfere with the
workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3-7/8"
and 5-1/2" wide vertically follow the directions on this page.
CUTTING 3-7/8"– 5-1/2" BASE MOLDING
VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
• Position molding as shown in Figure 22
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the
fence
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with top of the molding resting on
the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Note: If the cut must be made somewhere other than
1" from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at
90° approx. 1" longer than your final length then make
the miter cut as described above.
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut
A THIRD METHOD OF MAKING THE CUT
NECESSARY IS TO MAKE A ZERO DEGREE MITER,
45 DEGREE BEVEL CUT. YOUR SAW CAN CUT A
BEVEL 7-7/8" WIDE.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING
THE BEVEL FEATURE
• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
FENCE
CROWN MOLDING FLAT ON TABLE AND
AGAINST FENCE
BOTTOM SIDE
OF MOLDING
TOP SIDE OF
MOLDING
FENCE
CROWN MOLDING BETWEEN FENCE AND TABLE
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the
saw as shown in figures 23 and 24.
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
the fence
2. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
11
FIG. 27
FIG. 26
TABLE
FENCE
FIG. 28
FIG. 26A
DW 7054 CROWN
MOLDING FENCE
TABLE
FENCE
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting
crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit prop-
erly, crown molding must be compound mitered with
extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding
are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90
degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear
angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52
degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat
against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at
31.62 degrees left and right for cutting crown molding at
the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale
at 33.85 degrees.
BLADE
RIGHT
BLADE
WRONG