Troubleshooting
Problem
1. Low/Slow Production
2. Milky colored Water
3. Water constantly running, unit will
not shut off
4. Water from faucet vent hole or noise
from drain
5. Small amount of water in storage
tank
6. Low water flow from faucet
Arsenic Fact Sheet
Arsenic (As) is a naturally occurring contaminant found in many ground waters. Arsenic in water has no color, taste or odor. It must be
measured by an arsenic test kit or lab test.
Public water utilities must have their water tested for arsenic. You can obtain the results from your water utility contained within your
consumer confidence report. If you have your own well, you will need to have the water evaluated. The local health department or the
state environmental health agency can provide a list of test kits or certified labs.
There are two forms of arsenic: pentavalent arsenic (also called As (V), As (+5)) and trivalent arsenic (also called As (III), As (+3)). In well
water, arsenic may be pentavalent, trivalent, or a combination of both. Although both forms of arsenic are potentially hazardous to your
health, trivalent arsenic is considered more harmful than pentavalent arsenic.
RO systems are very effective at removing pentavalent arsenic. A free chlorine residual will rapidly convert trivalent arsenic to pentavalent
arsenic. Other water treatment chemicals such as ozone and potassium permanganate will also change trivalent arsenic to pentavalent
arsenic. A combined chlorine residual (also called chloramine) where it does convert trivalent arsenic to pentavalent arsenic, may not
convert all the trivalent arsenic in to pentavalent arsenic. If you get your water from a public water utility, contact the utility to find out if
free chlorine or combined chlorine is used in the water system.
This Pure H2O reverse osmosis system is designed to remove up to 98% of pentavalent arsenic. It will not convert trivalent arsenic to
pentavalent arsenic. Under laboratory standard testing conditions, this system reduced 0.30 mg/L (ppm) pentavalent arsenic to under
0.010 mg/L (ppm) (the USEPA standard for drinking water). Actual performance of the system may vary depending on specific water
quality conditions at the consumer's installation. In addition to the independent laboratory standard testing conditions Pure H2O has
conducted additional field testing on our reverse osmosis units to determine trivalent arsenic reduction capabilities. Based upon Pure
H2O field testing, it has been determined that the RO units are capable of reducing up to 67% of trivalent arsenic from the drinking
water.
This reverse osmosis system contains a replaceable component critical to the efficiency of the system. Replacement of the reverse
osmosis component should be with one of identical specifications, as defined by the manufacturer, to ensure the same efficiency and
contaminant reduction performance. Specific component identification and ordering information can be found in the maintenance
section of this manual, by phone at (888) 321-0500.
Cause
• Low Water Pressure
• Crimps in tubing
• Clogged Carbon Block Filter
• Fouled Reverse Osmosis Membrane
• Air in system
• Low water pressure
• Crimp in supply tube
• High water pressure
• High pressure in Tank
• Low Pressure in Tank
• Crimp or restriction in drain line
• Drain tube clogged
• System starting up
• Low water pressure
• Too much air in tank
• Check air pressure in tank
Solution
• Assure a minimum of 35 psi incoming water pressure. Watts sells a booster pump
if home water pressure is low. Make sure water supply is turned on and feed water
valve is all the way open.
• Check tubing and straighten or replace as necessary.
• Replace Carbon Block Filter.
• Replace membrane.
• Air in the system is a normal occurrence with initial start up of the RO system. This
milky look will disappear during normal use within 1-2 weeks. If condition reoccurs
after filter change, drain tank 1 to 2 times.
• See #1 Above
• Check tubing and straighten or repair as necessary
• Check incoming water pressure to make sure it does not exceed 100 psi. A pressure
regulator will be required (not included with the system).
• Empty storage tank of water. Set tank air pressure between 5-7 psi. See previous
page.
• Use a Digital Air Gauge for best results. The empty tank pressure should be 5-7 psi.
See page 13.
• Check tubing and straighten or repair as necessary. Straighten all drain lines. Clear
blockage. Cut off any excess tubing from the drain line and reinstall the drain line per
the instructions. Check for leaks
• Caused from dishwasher or garbage disposal. Disconnect the 3/8" black line at the
drain, clean the 3/8" black line out with a wire, then reconnect . Check for leaks.
blowing air through the line will not always remove the clog.
• Normally it takes 3 hours to fill tank. Note: low incoming water pressure and/or
temperature can drastically reduce production rate.
• See #1 above.
• Tank air pressure should be 5-7 psi when empty of water. If below 5 psi add air or
bleed if above 7 psi. Check only when tank is empty of water. See previous page.
• Use a Digital Air Gauge for best results. The empty tank pressure should be 5-7 psi.
See page 13.
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