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Electrical Requirements
WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded (earthed) outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in death,
fire, or electrical shock.
Before you move your refrigerator into its final location, it is
important to make sure you have the proper electrical
connection.
Recommended Grounding Method
Plug 1: A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20-amp fused,
grounded (earthed) electrical supply is required.
Plugs 2 and 3: A 220/240 Volt/50 Hz or 220 Volt/60Hz AC only
10-amp fused and grounded (earthed) electrical supply is
required.
Plug 1
It is recommended that a separate circuit serving only your
refrigerator be provided. Use an outlet that cannot be turned off
by a switch. Do not use an extension cord.
NOTE: Before performing any type of installation, cleaning, or
removing a light bulb, turn the control, (Thermostat, Refrigerator
or Freezer Control depending on the model) to OFF and then
disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical source. When you
are finished, reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical source
and reset the control (Thermostat, Refrigerator or Freezer Control
depending on the model) to the desired setting.
Plug 2
Plug 3
Connect the Water Supply
(on some models)
Read all directions before you begin.
IMPORTANT:
If you turn the refrigerator on before the water line is
connected, turn the ice maker OFF.
A qualified service technician must install the water line and
ice maker.
All installations must meet local plumbing code requirements.
Use copper tubing and check for leaks. Install copper tubing
only in areas where temperatures will remain above freezing.
It may take up to 24 hours for your ice maker to begin
producing ice.
TOOLS NEEDED: Gather the required tools and parts before
starting installation. Read and follow the instructions provided
with any tools listed here. Flat-blade screwdriver, ⁷⁄₁₆" and ¹⁄₂"
open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches, ¹⁄₄" nut driver
and drill bit, hand drill or electric drill (properly grounded).
NOTE: Your refrigerator dealer has a kit available with a ¹⁄₄"
(6.35 mm) saddle-type shutoff valve, a union, and copper tubing.
Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with
your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆"
(4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more
easily.
Cold Water Supply
The ice maker water valve contains a flow washer which is used
as a water pressure regulator. The ice maker needs to be
connected to a cold water line with water pressure between 30
and 120 psi. If a problem occurs, call your utility company.
Connect to Water Line
1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
2. Turn OFF main water supply. Turn ON nearest faucet long
enough to clear line of water.
3. Locate a ¹⁄₂" (1.25 cm) to 1¹⁄₄" (3.18 cm) vertical COLD water
pipe near the refrigerator.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure it is a cold water pipe.
Horizontal pipe will work, but drill on the top side of the
pipe, not the bottom. This will help keep water away from
the drill and normal sediment from collecting in the valve.
4. Determine the length of copper tubing you will need. Measure
from connection on lower left rear of refrigerator to water
pipe. Add 7 ft (2.1 m) to allow for cleaning. Use ¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm)
O.D. (outside diameter) copper tubing. Be sure both ends of
copper tubing are cut square.
5. Using a grounded drill, drill a ¹⁄₄" hole in the cold water pipe
you have selected.
G
F
E
A. Cold water pipe
B. Pipe clamp
C. Copper tubing
D. Compression nut
A
B
C
D
E. Compression sleeve
F. Shutoff valve
G. Packing nut
5
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