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and adjust to the zero indicator mark. The saw is now adjusted to accurately indicate the depth
of cut for the blade used.
For the most efficient cutting action using a carbide tipped saw blade, set the depth adjustment
so that about one half of a tooth projects below the surface of the wood to be cut. The height
of a whole tooth is the distance from the tip of the tooth to the bottom of the gullet in front of it.
Study Figures 5A and 5B to determine what one half tooth means. (Figure 5A shows one half
tooth projecting below the surface and Figure 5B shows a whole tooth projecting below the
surface.)
Setting the saw at the proper cutting depth keeps blade friction to a minimum, removes saw-
dust from between the blade teeth, results in cooler, faster sawing and reduces the chance of
kickback.
A method of checking for the correct cutting depth is shown in Figure 6. Lay a piece of the mate-
rial you plan to cut along the side of the blade, as shown in the figure, and observe how much
tooth projects beyond the material.
NOTE: When using a non carbide tipped blade, make an exception to the above procedure and
allow a full tooth to project below the material, as shown in Figure 5B.
BEVEL ANGLE ADJUSTMENT (FIG. 7)
The full range of the Bevel Adjustment is from 0 to 50 DEGREES. The quadrant (L) is graduated
in increments of 1 degree.
On the front of the saw is a bevel angle adjustment mechanism consisting of a calibrated
quadrant (L) and a bevel adjustment knob (M). To set the saw for a bevel cut, loosen (counter-
clockwise) the quadrant knob and tilt shoe to the desired angle by aligning the pointer with the
desired angle mark. Retighten knob firmly (clockwise).
KERF INDICATOR (FIG. 8)
The front of the saw shoe has a kerf indicator (N) for vertical and bevel cutting. This indicator
enables you to guide the saw along cutting lines penciled on the material being cut. The indicator
lines up with the left (inner) side of the saw blade, which makes the slot or "kerf" cut by the moving
blade fall to the right of the indicator. Guide along the penciled cutting line so that the kerf falls into
the waste or surplus material. Figure 8 shows the dimensions of the shoe. Note that the left side
is 5 1/2" (140mm) between the left side of the blade and the left edge of the shoe (standard 6x
lumber). The right dimension is 1-1/2" (38mm) (standard 2x lumber).
SHOE ALIGNMENT
Your saw has been set at the factory for accurate vertical cuts (a 90 degree angle between the
bottom of the shoe (J) and the blade (F). The edge of the shoe has also been set parallel to the
blade so that it will not bind when using an edge guide. If the saw should ever need adjustment,
it may be done as follows:
ADJUSTING FOR 90° CUTS (FIG. 9-11)
1. DISCONNECT PLUG FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Adjust the saw to 0° bevel.
3. Place saw on blade side (Fig. 9). Retract blade guard.
4. Loosen quadrant knob. Place a square against the blade and shoe to adjust the 90° set-
ting.
5. Loosen the hex nut (O) and move the adjustment screw (P) so that the shoe will stop at the
proper angle as shown in Figure 11. Lock the screw in place by tightening the hex nut.
6. It may be necessary to adjust the quadrant angle pointer to line up on "0" after shoe has
been adjusted.
ADJUSTING THE SHOE PARALLEL TO THE BLADE
1. DISCONNECT PLUG FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Loosen the hex nut (O) shown in Figure 10 and then turn the adjustment screw (P) in or out
as needed to adjust for parallelism.
3. Adjust the shoe until it is parallel to the blade by measuring from the edge of the shoe to
the blade, front and rear. You can measure from the outside edge of the blade to the shoe
as shown in Figure 8 or from the inner edge of the blade to the wider part of the shoe. (Do
not measure from the tips of any saw blade teeth.)
4. When the shoe and blade are parallel, hold the adjusting screw in place and tighten the hex
nut firmly.
OPERATION
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off and disconnect
tool from power source before making any adjustments or removing/installing attach-
ments or accessories.
Switch
Pull the trigger switch (B) to turn the motor "ON". Releasing the trigger turns the motor "OFF".
Releasing the trigger also automatically actuates the electric brake. This tool has no provision to
lock the switch in the "ON" position, and should never be locked "ON" by any other means.
Changing Blades
WARNING: Avoid contact with the blade teeth to prevent personal injury.
CAUTION: Never engage the blade lock while saw is running, or engage in an effort to stop
the tool. Never turn the saw on while the blade lock is engaged. Serious damage to your saw
will result.
TO INSTALL THE BLADE
1. Place inner clamp washer (E) on saw spindle with the large flat surface facing out toward
the blade (Fig. 2).
2. Using the lever (C), retract the lower blade guard (D) and place blade on saw spindle against
the inner clamp washer, making sure that the blade will rotate in the proper direction (the
direction of the rotation arrow on the saw blade and the teeth must point in the same direction
as the direction of rotation arrow on the saw). Do not assume that the printing on the blade
will always be facing you when properly installed. When retracting the lower blade guard to
install the blade, check the condition and operation of the lower blade guard to assure that
it is working properly. Make sure it moves freely and does not touch the blade or any other
part, in all angles and depths of cut.
3. Place outer clamp washer (G) on saw spindle with the large flat surface against the blade
and the wording on the outer clamp washer facing you.
4. Thread blade clamping screw (H) into saw spindle by hand (screw has right-hand threads
and must be turned clockwise to tighten).
5. Depress the blade lock (I) while turning the saw spindle with the blade wrench until the blade
lock engages and the blade stops rotating (Fig. 3).
6. Tighten the blade clamping screw firmly with the blade wrench.
NOTE: Never engage the blade lock while saw is running, or engage in an effort to stop the tool.
Never turn the saw on while the blade lock is engaged. Serious damage to your saw will result.
TO REPLACE THE BLADE
1. To loosen the blade clamping screw (H), depress the blade lock (I) and turn the saw spindle
with the blade wrench until the blade lock engages and the blade stops rotating. With the
blade lock engaged, turn the blade clamping screw counterclockwise with the blade wrench
(screw has right-hand threads and must be turned counterclockwise to loosen).
2. Remove the blade clamping screw (H) and outer clamp washer (G) only. Remove old
blade.
3. Clean any sawdust that may have accumulated in the guard or clamp washer area and check
the condition and operation of the lower blade guard as previously outlined. Do not lubricate
this area.
4. Select the proper blade for the application (see Blades). Always use blades that are the
correct size (diameter) with the proper size and shape center hole for mounting on the saw
spindle. Always assure that the maximum recommended speed (rpm) on the saw blade
meets or exceeds the speed (rpm) of the saw.
5. Follow steps 2 through 6 under To Install the Blade, making sure that the blade will rotate
in the proper direction.
LOWER BLADE GUARD
WARNING: The lower blade guard is a safety feature which reduces the risk of serious
personal injury. Never use the saw if the lower guard is missing, damaged, misassembled
or not working properly. Do not rely on the lower blade guard to protect you under all
circumstances. Your safety depends on following all warnings and precautions as well
as proper operation of the saw. Check lower guard for proper closing before each use
as outlined in Additional Safety Rules for Circular Saws. If the lower blade guard is
missing or not working properly, have the saw serviced before using. To assure product
safety and reliability, repair, maintenance and adjustment should be performed by an
authorized D
WALT service center or other qualified service organization, always using
E
identical replacement parts.
Workpiece Support
WARNING: Hands should be kept away from cutting area to reduce the risk of injury.
WARNING: The power cord should be positioned clear of the cutting area so that it will not
get caught or hung up on the work and to prevent electric shock.
WARNING: When operating the saw, keep the cord away from the cutting area to prevent
electric shock.
WARNING: It is important to support the work properly and to hold the saw firmly to prevent
loss of control which could cause personal injury; Figure 17 illustrates typical hand support of
the saw.
Figure 12 and 13 show proper sawing position. Figure 14 and 16 show an unsafe condition.
To avoid kickback, DO support board or panel NEAR the cut (Fig. 14 ). DON'T support board or
panel away from the cut (Fig. 14, 16).
Place the work with its "good" side - the one on which appearance is most important - down. The
saw cuts upward, so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when you saw it.
Support the work so that the cut will be on your right. Place the wider portion of the saw shoe
on that part of the work piece which is solidly supported, not on the section that will fall off
when the cut is made. As examples, Figure 15 illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of
a board,and Figure 16 the WRONG way. Always clamp work. Don't try to hold short pieces by
hand! Remember to support cantilevered and overhanging material. Use caution when sawing
material from below.
Cutting
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut. Starting saw with blade
against material to be cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback.
Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring. Hardness and
toughness can vary even in the same piece of material, and knotty or damp sections can put a
heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly, but hard enough to keep
it working without much decrease in speed. Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy,
kickback and over-heating of the motor.
Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to force it back on. Release the switch and allow
blade to come to a complete stop. Then you can withdraw the saw, sight anew, and start a new
cut slightly inside the wrong one. In any event, withdraw the saw if you must shift the cut. Forcing
a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead to kickback. IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE
THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE SAW UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT
IN THE CUT AND CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to stop before lifting the saw from the
work. As you lift the saw, the spring-tensioned telescoping guard will automatically close under
the blade. Remember the blade is exposed until this occurs, never reach under the work for any
reason whatsoever. When you have to retract the telescoping guard manually (as is necessary
for starting pocket cuts) always use the retracting lever.
NOTE: When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that small cutoff pieces don't hang up on
inside of lower guard.
Always use a fence or straight edge guide when ripping.
POCKET CUTTING (FIG. 17)
WARNING: Use the lever (C) provided on the lower guard when you have to retract the guard
manually.
Adjust saw shoe so blade cuts at desired depth. Tilt saw forward and rest front of the shoe on
material to be cut. Using the retracting lever, retract blade guard to an upward position. Lower
rear of shoe until blade teeth almost touch cutting line. Now release the blade guard and its
contact with the work will keep it in position to open freely as you start the cut. Start the motor
and gradually lower the saw until its shoe rests flat on the material to be cut. Advance saw along
the cutting line until cut is completed. Release trigger and allow blade to stop completely before
FIG. 1
I
FIG.2
E
G
H
H
FIG. 3
TIGHTEN
SERRER
APRIETE
LOOSEN
DESSERRER
AFLOJE
FIG. 5
I
FIG. 6
FIG. 8
J
5-1/2"
140mm
1-1/2"
38mm
0˚
45˚
FIG. 10
N
FIG. 12
B
A
L
M
J
D
C
F
SPINDLE
BROCHE
EJE
G
E
BLADE / LAME / HOJA
FIG. 4
K
I
FIG. 5A
CREUX EN FORME
SURFACE OF
WOOD
SURFACE DU
BOIS
TIP OF TOOTH
SUPERFICIE
BOUT DE LA DENT
DE MADERA
PUNTA DEL DIENTE
FIG. 5B
TIP OF TOOTH
BOUT DE LA DENT
PUNTA DEL DIENTE
FIG. 7
L
N
FIG. 9
M
FIG. 11
O
GULLET
D'HAMEÇON
GARGANTA
GULLET
CREUX EN FORME
D'HAMEÇON
GARGANTA
M
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