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(18) TUBE STATUS INDICATION (T.S.I.
These are LEDs that light green or red depending on the status of the power tube they are representing.
These are merely the visual part of the wider status indication, fault detection and tube protection circuits.
All models have one LED for each power tube, therefore all have two except for the ValveKing
four due to it having four power tubes. From left to right these LEDs are associated with the corresponding
power tube in the chassis.
The simple explanation is that the LED will be green in normal working mode and red in any other mode
including: Standby, low bias, low current (tube wearing out) or high current fault condition that has
switched on the protection circuit.
The more detailed explanation is as follows:
(This applies to all models but see below for important differences on ValveKing
At Standby the LEDs should be red. This is due to the tubes not yet being fully on. When switching from
Standby to On these should then turn from red to green. These should basically remain green in normal
playing conditions.
If one or more LEDs goes red it means that tube is not working properly for one of the following reasons:
- Tube is 'under current': This could be due to incorrect bias, low current due to aging, open circuit due
to structural/physical fault or missing filament heater supply.
- Tube has gone 'over current': In this case the resettable protection circuit will be switched on to
protect against further damage and to allow the amplifier to carry on working with the remaining
tube(s). This could be due to bias failure, over-heating of the tube or other fault condition resulting in
excessive current draw.
Reset: In some conditions, with an adequate gap in playing, the protection circuit will auto-reset and
allow the tube to be turned back on. If the fault remains then the LED will stay red. In these situations,
at a convenient point the amp should be turned off for a few minutes then back on again. If the fault is
still there then the amp should be checked by a factory authorized technician for correct bias or faulty/
worn out tube(s).
Differences on ValveKing
In the normal '100% power' and 'speaker enabled' modes, this will work exactly the same as mentioned
earlier. However, as the 25% and 5% power modes as well as the speaker defeat setting intentionally
turns off one pair of power tubes (to reduce unnecessary heat), the inner two LEDs will be lit red when
set to any of these settings. This is the T.S.I.
tubes are not currently active.
(19) PILOT LIGHT
Illuminates when AC power is being supplied to the amp.
(20) STANDBY SWITCH
Placing this switch in the "Standby" position will effectively mute the amplifier while leaving the tube
filaments on. Leave this switch in the "Standby" position for a minimum of one (1) minute after engaging
the POWER SWITCH (#21). This is also a useful feature because much tube wear comes from the heating
and cooling of the tube itself. Leaving the unit in "Standby" when you take a break allows the tubes to stay
warm while you are not playing. To immediately resume normal amp operation with no warm-up delay, place
the switch in the "ON" position. NOTE: This switch does not replace the POWER SWITCH (#21). When you are
ready to stop playing for an extended period of time, it is better to turn the amp off via the POWER SWITCH
(#21). To prevent any undesirable noise, it is recommended to switch the amp to Standby for at least a few
seconds before switching fully off.
(21) POWER SWITCH
To apply power to the unit, flip the switch to the "ON" position. The red PILOT LIGHT (#19) will illuminate,
indicating power is being supplied.
) LEDS
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circuit operating as it should, by indicating that these two
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