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Installation
2. Wrap the threads of the close nipple (Key No. 3 on
Page 12) counterclockwise with 2 turns of tape and set
aside.
NOTICE: There must be a check valve installed in
the Primary Sump Pump discharge pipe between the
tee and the Primary Sump Pump. This will prevent
recirculation into the Primary Pump when the
Backup Sump Pump comes on.
3. The backup pump (Key No. 6) and check valve
assembly (Key Nos. 4 and 5) come preassembled.
Thread the close pipe nipple into the check valve.
4. To thread the tee (Key No. 2B - also included
reducer bushings) into the close nipple:
Hold the check valve assembly with the channel
locks, insert the screwdriver into the tee for leverage,
and tighten the tee with the screwdriver. Finish with
the tee in a straight up and down (vertical) position.
5. Clean the pipe ends with the cloth towel.
6. Glue the cut-off piece of discharge pipe into the top
of the tee.
NOTICE: If your pipe is 1-1/4", you will need to
glue the reducer bushings into the tee and glue the
pipe into the bushing. Place the assembly onto the
primary discharge pipe. Do not glue the tee onto the
primary pump discharge pipe.
7. Mount the back-up pump float switch assembly (Key
No. 7) loosely to the discharge pipe with the cable
ties (Key Nos. 7A & 7B). See Figure 6, on Page 6.
Approximately 2.5" (63.5 mm) of cord length should
be left between the float and the clamp. Do not tighten
the cable ties. Adjustments may be needed later.
Cut the Discharge Pipe:
1. Put the double pump assembly into the sump pit.
NOTICE: The discharge pipe now overlaps the
discharge pipe that leads outside.
Method A
Make the Third Cut
(the overlap plus
the 1/4" air gap).
overlap
Exterior
discharge
pipe
1/4" air gap
Note: Always install the back-up sump pump as close
to the bottom of the sump pit as possible.
Figure 8 – Make the third cut to remove the excess
discharge pipe
Method B
overlap
Exterior
discharge
pipe
Sump basin
inlet pipe (from
drain tiles to
sump basin).
2"
Recommended Minimum
2"
Previously marked
"on" water level
of Primary Sump Pump.
(See Figure 1, Page 4)
3549 1099 S521
2. Mark the discharge pipe where it should be cut. Be
sure to leave a 1/4" air gap between the ends of the
pipes. This gap will absorb the noise from vibration
and allow for flexibility.
3. Make the third cut. See Figure 8.
TRIAL ASSEMBLY OF DOUBLE PUMP
ASSEMBLY IN THE SUMP PIT:
1. Connect the discharge pipe to the exterior discharge
pipe with the rubber coupling and clamp kit (Key
No. 1). Do not tighten the clamps until all the final
adjustments are complete.
2. Make the final adjustments. Make sure the pumps
and the switches do not interfere with each other.
Make sure there is plenty of room for the float
switches to either swing or to move up and down
from their "off" to their "on" positions.
Mark and Glue Assembly:
1. Mark the pipe and the fittings at all the connections
with a pencil. These marks will be used as a
reassembly guide while gluing to be sure everything is
still in the right place and nothing has moved.
2. Loosen the rubber coupling and clamp connection.
3. Carefully pull the double pump assembly back out of
the pit.
4. Take the tee assembly off of the primary discharge
pipe. Do Not unscrew any of the taped pipe nipple
connections.
5. Clean all the PVC pipe ends with the PVC cleaner.
Hazardous fumes. Follow the cement
and cleaner manufacturers instructions. Use the PVC
cement in a well ventilated area away from fire or
flames.
6. Glue the PVC fittings where indicated by the pencil
marks. Wait 10 minutes for the glue to cure.
Final Assembly:
1. Put the double pump assembly back into the pit.
2. Install and tighten the rubber coupling and clamp kit.
3. Make the final float switch adjustments and tighten
the cable ties.
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