TO USE THE MITER GAUGE
See Figure 30.
The miter gauge provides greater accuracy in angled cuts.
For very close tolerances, test cuts are recommended.
There are two miter gauge grooves, one on either side of
the blade. When making a 90° cross cut, you can use either
miter gauge groove. When making a beveled cross cut (the
blade tilted in relation to the table) the miter gauge should be
located in the groove on the right so that the blade is tilted
away from the miter gauge and your hands.
The miter gauge can be turned 60° to the right or left.
Loosen the lock knob.
With the miter gauge in the miter gauge groove, rotate
the gauge until the desired angle is reached on the scale.
Retighten the lock knob.
ADJUSTING THE BLADE PARALLEL TO THE
MITER GAUGE GROOVE (REMOVING HEEL)
See Figures 31 - 33.
WARNING:
The blade must be made parallel to the miter gauge
groove so the wood does not bind resulting in kickback.
Failure to do so could result in serious personal injury.
Do not loosen any bolts for this adjustment until you have
checked with a ruler and made test cuts to be sure adjust-
ments are necessary. Once the bolts are loosened, these
items must be reset.
Unplug the saw.
Remove the blade guard and riving knife. Raise the blade
by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel.
Mark beside one of the blade teeth at the front of the
blade. Using a ruler, measure the distance from the inside
face of the blade tooth to the left edge of the right miter
gauge groove.
NOTE: For greater accuracy, place the marked blade
tooth on top of the ruler.
Turn the blade so the marked tooth is at the back.
Move the ruler to the rear and again measure the distance
from the inside face of the blade tooth to the left edge
of the right miter gauge groove. If the distances are the
same, the blade and the miter gauge groove are parallel.
Replace blade guard and riving knife.
OPERATION
BLADE
TOOTH
28 - English
MITER
GAUGE BODY
MITER
GAUGE
LOCK
KNOB
Fig. 30
RULER
MITER GAUGE
GROOVE
Fig. 31