The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while cutting. Although the louvers
dramatically reduce flying debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should be
worn at all times.
Rail Guide Adjustment (Fig. A)
Periodically check the rails
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for any play or clearance. The rails can be cleaned with a dry
clean cloth. The right rail can be adjusted with the set screw
clearance, use a 4 mm hex wrench and rotate the set screw clockwise gradually while sliding the
saw head back and forth. Reduce play while maintaining minimum slide force.
Support for Long Pieces
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off and remove the
battery pack before transporting, making any adjustments or removing/installing
attachments or accessories. An accidental start-up can cause injury.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension, as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull
the workpiece.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. P, Q)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Fig. P
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure P. Sketch 1 in
Figure Q shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards
at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position
and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering
right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. P, Q)
Sketch 2 in Figure Q shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45º to miter the two boards
to form a 90º corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter
arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
Figures P and Q are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the
proper angles for a variety of shapes.
– EXAMPlEs –
NUMBER OF SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
use the following formula: 180º divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the material is
cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
Cutting Compound Miters (Fig. R)
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is
the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure Q.
nOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel lock knob and the miter
lock handle are securely locked. These must be locked after making any changes in bevel
or miter.
shown in Figure A. To reduce
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Fig. Q
1
2
MITER OR BEVEL ANGLE
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
The chart at the end of this manual (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle A
(Fig. R) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point
follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the
correct miter angle.
Fig. R
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces
together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4-sided box with 26º exterior angles (Angle A, Fig. R), use the upper right arc.
Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle
setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the
bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the
settings on the saw.
Cutting Base Molding (Fig. S)
Straight 90º cuts:
Position the wood against the fence and hold it in place as shown in Figure S. Turn on the saw,
allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Cutting Base Molding Up to 3.5" (89 mm) High Vertically Against
the Fence
Position material as shown in Figure S.
Fig. S
All cuts should be made with the back of the molding against the fence and with the bottom of
the molding against the table.
INSIDE CORNER
Miter left 45°
Left side
Save left side of cut
Miter right 45°
Right side
Save right side of cut
Material up to 3.5" (89 mm) can be cut as described above.
Cutting Crown Molding
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together,
equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat
against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter detent points at 31.6° left and right for cutting crown
molding at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the bevel scale at 33.8°.
The Bevel Setting/Type of Cut chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The
numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on
your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine tune your
settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EX TREME LY IMPORTANT!
English
ANGLE "A"
OUTSIDE CORNER
Miter right 45°
Save left side of cut
Miter left 45°
Save right side of cut
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