OPERATION
• Turn a short tenon to the size of the hole in face plate.
This will allow centering the workpiece when the face
plate is attached.
Note: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon of the
appropriate length and diameter to fit your chuck.
BOWL
• Stop the lathe, remove workpiece and attach face
plate or chuck.
• Finish turning the outside of bowl with bowl gouge.
Leave additional material at base of bowl for support
while turning interior. This will be removed later.
To shape interior of bowl
• Stop the lathe and move tailstock away.
• Adjust tool rest in front of the bowl just below
centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways.
• Rotate workpiece by hand to check clearance.
• Face off top of bowl by making a light shearing cut
across the top of workpiece, from rim to center.
• Place bowl gouge on tool rest at center of the workpiece
with the flute facing top of bowl. The tool handle should
be level and pointed toward the four o'clock position.
Swing in
toward hip
MAINTENANCE
Maintenance General
Keep your machine clean. At the end of each day, clean
the machine. Wood contains moisture, and if sawdust or wood
chips are not removed, they will cause rust. Regular oil
attracts dust and dirt. Teflon lubricant tends to dry and has
fewer tendencies to accumulate dirt and saw dust.
Periodically check that all nuts and bolts are tight.
Drive belt
The drive belt should last for many years (depending on
the usage) but needs to be inspected regularly for cracks,
cuts and general wear. If damage is found, replace the belt.
Tenon with
diameter of
face plate
Workpiece
9
• Use the left hand to control cutting edge of gouge, while
right hand swings tool handle around toward your body.
The flute should start out facing top of workpiece, and
rotate upward as it moves deeper into the bowl to
maintain a clean even curve. As the tool goes deeper
into the bowl, progressively work out toward the rim.
It may be necessary to turn the tool rest into the piece
as you get deeper into the bowl.
Note: Try to make one, very light continuous movement
from the rim to the bottom of the bowl to ensure a
clean, sweeping curve through the piece. Should there
be a few small ridges left, a light cut with a large domed
scraper can even out the surface.
• Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain it as
you work deeper into the bowl (Once the piece is thin
toward the bottom, you cannot make it thinner at
the rim). When the interior is finished, move the tool
rest to exterior to re-define bottom of bowl.
• Wok the tight area around faceplate of chuck with bowl
gouge.
• Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do not
cut all the way through yet.
Sanding and finishing
• Remove the tool rest and adjust to lower speed.
High speed can build friction while sanding and cause
heat check in some woods.
• Begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit) and progress
through each grit, using only light pressure. Coarser
sandpaper tends to leave deep scratches that are hard
to eliminate. Use power-sanding techniques to avoid
concentric sanding marks around your finished piece.
Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with sandpaper;
try to keep details crisp. Finish sanding with 220 grit.
• Remove sanding dust with tack rags or compressed air,
with lathe turned off, apply first coat of finish. Let stand
for several minutes, wipe off excess. Allow to dry before
sanding again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.
• Turn lathe back on and continue the separation cut
almost all the way through the base. Stop at about
75 mm and use a small fine tooth saw to separate
the bowl from the waste.
• Apply second finish coat and allow to dry before buffing.
Bearings
All bearings are sealed for life and do not require any
maintenance. If a bearing becomes faulty, replace it.
Rust
The lathe is made from steel and cast iron. All non painted
surfaces will rust if not protected. It is recommended
that they are protected by applying wax.