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3. Blade Twisting (Misalignment in Cut)
a. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail, or a hard
grain area can cause the blade to twist.
b. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on
the marked line) can cause blade twist.
c. Overreaching or operating the saw with poor
body control (out of balance), can result in twisting
the blade.
d. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting
can result in blade twist.
e. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist.
4. Materials That Require Extra Attention
a. Wet lumber
b. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
c. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with
preservatives or anti-rot chemicals)
5. Use Of Dull Or Dirty Blades
Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To
compensate, an operator will usually push harder which
further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade
in the kerf. Worn blades may also have insufficient body
clearance which increases the chance of binding and
increased loading.
6. lifting The saw When Making A Bevel Cut
Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper
cutting techniques – especially guidance of the saw.
Both blade angle to the shoe and greater blade surface
in the material increase the chance for binding and
misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. Restarting A Cut With The Blade Teeth Jammed
Against The Material
The saw should be brought up to full operating speed
before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has
been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so
can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding,
twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause kickback.
Refer to the sections Further Safety Instructions for All Saws
and Blades for procedures and techniques that will minimize
the occurrence of kickback.
Cutting Depth Adjustment (Fig. H, I)
1. Hold the saw firmly and loosen (clockwise) the depth
adjustment knob
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and move shoe to obtain the desired
depth of cut.
2. Make sure the depth adjustment knob has been
retightened (counterclockwise) before operating saw.
For the most efficient cutting action, set the depth
adjustment so that one-half tooth of the blade will project
below the material to be cut. This distance is from the tip of
the tooth to the bottom of the gullet in front of it. This keeps
blade friction at a minimum, removes sawdust from the cut,
results in cooler, faster sawing and reduces the chance of
kickback. A method for checking for correct cutting depth is
shown in Figure H. Lay a piece of the material you plan to cut
along the side of the blade, as shown, and observe how much
tooth projects beyond the material.
Fig. H
Fig. I
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Bevel Angle Adjustment (Fig. I)
The full range of the bevel adjustment is from 0° to 50°. The
quadrant is graduated in increments of 1°. On the front of the
saw is a bevel angle adjustment mechanism consisting of a
calibrated quadrant and a bevel adjustment knob
To Set the Saw for a Bevel Cut
1. Loosen (counterclockwise) the bevel adjustment
knob
and tilt shoe to the desired angle by aligning
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the pointer with the desired angle mark.
2. Retighten knob firmly (clockwise).
Shoe Adjustment for 90°Cuts (Fig. J)
If additional adjustment is needed:
1. Adjust the saw to 0° bevel.
2. Retract the lower blade guard. Place the saw on
blade side.
3. Loosen bevel adjustment knob
against the blade and shoe to adjust the 90° setting.
Fig. J
4. Turn the calibration screw
at the proper angle.
5. Confirm the accuracy of the setting by checking the
squareness of an actual cut on a scrap piece of material.
English
4
10
.
10
. Place a square
10
17
17
so that the shoe will stop
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