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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
CANDELARIA
HULL
PHOTO 1. Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames in place make sure that they
are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is important that the frames are completely
perpendicular to the false keel. For this operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2. Line the deck, no. 14, using the liner no. 15. Use contact glue (cobbler's adhesive), as an adhesive. Trim off any excess using a
cutter.
PHOTO 3. To simulate the planking and the caulking on the deck, highlight the lengthways lines that mark out the lining sheets with a pencil.
Finally, mark the points that simulate the nails.
PHOTO 4. Following the same procedure as in photos 2 and 3, line the bowsprit deck (no. 16). Glue deck (14) and deck (16) in place using
white glue.
PHOTO 5. Before lining deck (no. 18) use a pencil to trace a line that divides it lengthways into two equal parts. Start lining from the centre
towards the edges, using contact adhesive. Turn the part round and, on a flat surface, cut off the excess lining, but do not trim off the slots that
run along the edge of the deck.
PHOTO 6. To simulate the planking and caulking of the deck, using a pencil highlight the lengthways lines that mark out the lining sheets. Trace
alternating crossways lines every 100 mm. of length. Finally, alongside the crossways lines mark the points that will simulate nails. Glue it into
place using quick-drying adhesive, so that it is moulded t the curve.
PHOTO 7. Now line the forecastle deck (no. 20) using liner (no. 21). Also highlight the lengthways lines and glue them into place using white
glue. Do not trim off the slots on the edges.
PHOTO 8. Line the front, top part of frame (no. 2) using contact adhesive. The lining is vertical.
PHOTO 9. Line the front of frame (no. 10) using liner (no. 23). Do not line the top overhangs.
PHOTO 10. The quarter deck also has to be lined using the indicated liner. After trimming off any excess glue it into place. Do not trim off the
slots on the edges.
PHOTO 11. Glue the false keel into place on the battens (nos. 26, 27, 28 and 29). First fit the battens (26). Use white glue.
PHOTO 12. Glue the battens (nos. 30 and 31) into place on the stern. Finally glue into place the battens (nos. 32 and 33).
PHOTO 13. Apply a light oak shade of stainer or varnish to all of the decks. Preferably use a satin pr matt finish acrylic varnish.
PHOTO 14. Using a flat file, file down the edge of the frames in the marked areas, to unify the surfaces.
PHOTO 15. Carry out the same operation in the marked area at the stern.
PHOTO 16. Make sue that the bulwarks (no. 34) are well seated. To avoid any breakages dampen the parts with hot water and bend them so
that they adapt to the shape.
PHOTO 17. Glue and pin the bulwarks into place, respecting the 5 mm space left for the stem, as indicated in the photo. Also refer to photo 48.
Use white glue.
PHOTO 18. Continue to pin, working towards the stern, until the part is firmly attached.
PHOTO 19. Use the strips (nos. 35, 36 and 37) to finish off the front parts of the quarter deck.
PHOTO 20. Also finish off the front parts of the forecastle deck using the strips (nos. 38 and 39), leaving the openings that can be seen.
PHOTO 21. To achieve a good contact surface for the lining strakes, using sandpaper, sand down the battens and the edge of the frames
working from the bow to the stern.
PHOTO 22. Carry out the same operation as in the previous photo, but this time at the stern of the ship and sanding down from stern to bow.
PHOTO 23. Also gently sand down the whole of the central part.
PHOTO 24. Before starting to line the hull we recommend that you soak the strakes (nos. 40 and 41) in water, for at least an hour, so that the
wood recovers its original elasticity. Starting with the central frames, glue and pin the master strake (no. 40), using the slots in the frames as a
guide. Carry out the lining work simultaneously on both sides of the hull; i.e. every time you attach a strake to the left side attach another to the
right side.
PHOTO 25. The strakes must be attached respecting the 5 mm margin marked in the photo, which is almost the same thickness as the central
false keel. The stem, see photo 38, will be fitted into this margin.
PHOTO 26. At the stern the strakes must reach to the end of the battens. Cut the excess lengths of strakes using a saw.
PHOTO 27. Glue and pin the first lining strake (no. 41) above the master strake. From the bulwarks pin three strakes in place, down to the
master strake. Also glue the sides of each strake so that they are joined together. Use white glue.
PHOTO 28. Working up from the false keel to the master strake, pin four more strakes into place. Pin another strake, approximately in the
middle of the gap left between those already attached.
PHOTO 29. Note the close up view of how the strakes are finished at the stern of the hull.
PHOTO 30. To finish off the lining of the hull, use pieces of strake, filed at both ends, to fill in the gaps. To finish off the lining at the bow used
wedge shaped pieces of strake.
PHOTO 31. Cover the outside of the bulwarks with strakes. Use quick-drying glue in those areas where they cannot be pinned. Using the cutter,
trim off any excess lining and reopen the holes left for the gun ports, so that they are not hidden.
PHOTO 32. Having finished the lining process, sand down the whole of the hull, using a sander and file off the heads of the pins with a file, until
you have ensured a smooth and even surface.
PHOTO 33. Line the exterior of the bulwarks using the lining sheet (no. 44), starting from the base until they are completely covered. Start the
lining of the hull from just blow the bulwarks lining, using the sheets (no. 43) and continue down to the false keel. Alternate the lining work on
both sides of the hull. Use contact adhesive for this process. Glue the waterways (no. 42) into place against the bulwark and on the deck.
PHOTO 34. The lining process is the same as was used for the first lining. To finish off the hull lining use pieces of strakes filed to a point at
both ends or in wedge shapes, made to measure.
PHOTO 35. The lining when finished should appear as it does in the photo. Gently sand down the whole surface so that it is uniform. As you will
be able to see, the strips that cover the hull have been made using lengths as they were in reality.
PHOTO 36. Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes (no. 45). Sand the strips down and soak them in water for at least an hour so that
they gain in elasticity. These rubbing strakes can be stained using shoe polish, to give them a different shade. Adjust and glue the rubbing
strakes to the hull, starting from above, check on plan 1. Use quick-drying glue. The back part must be sanded down, so that step 40 can be
carried out. Fit them in pieces as was the case in reality.
PHOTO 37. At the bow the rubbing strakes have a space that has been set aside. Respect this separation to fit the parts indicated in photo 43.
PHOTO 38- 39. Look at plan 2 and then fit and glue the parts (nos. 46, 47, 48, 49 and 50) into place. These parts may also be stained before
they are fitted into place. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 40. Make a 6 mm diameter hole parallel to the stern post, in which to fit the rudder. Centre the upper stern and glue it into place. Use
quick drying glue.
PHOTO 41 - 42. Use the necessary strips to make up the limber boards (nos. 52, 53, 54, 55 and 56). The finials (no. 57) are made up using
lengths of 5 mm. diameter rod. Cut and glue the rubbing strake (no. 58) into place. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 43. Following the order established for the different parts indicated. If you want stain them a darker shade. Retouch if necessary the
openings of the frames (no. 65).
PHOTO 44- 45. Frame the central hatch, using the strips indicated in the photos. Varnish the whole of the hull using colourless, satin-finish
pore-filler varnish (Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for use). From this stage of assembly on varnish all of the wooden parts that
have to be incorporated to the ship.
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