TENSIONING THE CHAIN
Note: Proper chain tension with a concrete chain saw is much looser than with a wood chain saw. It must
be loose enough to run freely with only water as its lubrication.
•
An over tensioned chain will give unnecessary load to the motor and will lead to premature chain stretch,
sprocket damage, and spindle bearing damage.
•
An overly slack chain could fly off the guide bar and could also jump teeth on the drive sprocket, leading
to premature wear of the sprocket and the chain's drive links.
•
In use, the chain must be readjusted if it hangs below the guide bar 10mm or more
1.
To tension the chain, first loosen the 2 side cover nuts and leave
them finger tight.
CAUTION: attempting to turn the adjustor without loosening
the side cover nuts could result in damage to the adjustor
mechanism.
2.
While holding the guide bar upward from the nose end, turn the
tension adjustor clockwise to tighten.
3.
Rotate the chain by hand, grabbing the chain by its diamond
segments, to ensure the chain rotates freely.
WARNING: Wear gloves when handling the chain and bar.
Keep fingers away from the edges of the guide bar rails.
When worn, they will have a very sharp edge.
When the associated parts have some wear, there will be some
positions where the chain is looser and other positions where it
is tighter. Find the tightest point, and make the final adjustment
at that position.
4.
Tension is correct when the chain is free to run around the
guide bar, and the chain will hang with the drive links just barely
engaging the guide bar groove at the bottom center position.
5.
Once adjustment is satisfactory, the 2 side cover nuts may be
tightened. While still holding guide bar upward, tighten the 2
side cover nuts firmly.
CAUTION: Running the saw with the side cover nuts loose will cause a hazardous situation and
could lead to damage to the tension adjustor mechanism.
GB
8
Tension Adjustor
Correct Chain Tension
(drive links just
touching guide bar)
Chain Too Tight
Chain Too Loose
>10mm
×