OcCre 14002 JABEQUE Instrucciones De Montaje página 6

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS XEBEC
HULL
PHOTOS 1 to 3: Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames (nos. 2 to
12) into place make sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel
(no. 1). . It is important that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel so that they will later slot correctly into the
decks. Glue the mast reinforcements (nos. 13 & 14) into place. For this whole operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the
adhesive.
PHOTOS 4 & 5: Glue the deck support (no. 15) onto the frame (no. 9), making sure that it is aligned with the top of the frame.
Carry out the same process with the support (no. 16) on the last frame. Also glue another reinforcement (no. 13) to the false
keel.
PHOTOS 6 to 8. Take the deck (no. 17) and mark crossways lines on it, between the centre of the slots and a lengthways line
along the centre. Apply glue to the contact areas and, using the pins (A), pin the deck onto the frames and the false keel. Once
it is dry file down the heads of the pins to leave a smooth surface. Use white glue or quick drying glue.
PHOTOS 9 & 10: Line the forward side of the frame (no. 9) using the lining (no. 18). Use contact glue as an adhesive (cobbler's
glue). Make sure that you do not cover the tabs at the top of the frame (no. 9) that will slot into the quarter deck. Trim off the
excess lining using a cutter.
PHOTO 11: Line the deck lengthways, using the lining (no. 19). Start to line the deck from the middle and working towards the
sides. Use contact adhesive (cobbler's glue).
PHOTO 12: Using a cutter reopen the gaps for the hatches and trim off all of the excess from the perimeters of the deck.
PHOTOS 13 & 14: Line the interior of the last frame with the lining (no. 20), working horizontally. To simulate a planking and
caulking effect on the decks use a pencil to mark the lines between strips with dots to simulate nails.
PHOTO 15: Carry out the same operation, as described in steps 6 to 8 with the deck (no. 21).
PHOTOS 16 & 17: Line the deck with the lining (no. 22), starting in the middle and working towards the sides. Use contact glue
as an adhesive. Trim off the excess lining using a cutter. Also use a pencil to mark the joins between the strips, as with the main
deck. Sand down all of the decks, levelling off the lining strips, and eliminating any sprues.
PHOTOS 18 & 19: First glue the reinforcements (nos. 23, 24 & 25) onto both sides of the false keel, then glue the
reinforcements (nos. 26 & 27) to the stern. Use white glue or quick drying glue.
PHOTOS 20 & 21: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the bulwarks (no. 29) and the lining strakes (no. 37), and using
a sander or a file, sand down the edges of the frames, working from bow to stern. Check out the following steps in order to get
an idea of where the bulwarks are going to be fitted. This must be repeated on both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 22: Also file down the area of the stern, working towards the bow. Note that the reinforcements glued to the false keel
have to be filed down. A 3 mm thickness must be left at the back of the false keel.
PHOTO 23: Glue lengths of the strip (no. 28) under the decks. Make sure that they stick out a little. These lengths of strip will
serve as a small base on which to fit the bulwarks (no. 29).
PHOTO 24: Continue to file down the full length of the hull. Also adjust the profile of the decks so that the reinforcement strips
(no. 28), fitted in the last step, take on the curve of the deck.
PHOTO 25: Take the bulwarks (no. 29) and cut out the small parts (nos. 30 & 31). Keep these parts, which form part of the
decoration of the bulwarks: also check with photos nos. 37 & 65.
PHOTO 26: The interior of the bulwarks (no. 29) are lined with the lining sheets (no. 32) using contact adhesive. The lining can
be done using short sections, simulating planking. Trim off the excess and reopen the openings in the bulwark. Mark the joins
between the lining strips with a pencil to simulate planking. Gently sand down the whole of the lined surface.
PHOTO 27: Glue and pin the bulwarks to the structure of the hull. Start by lining up the small step at the back of the bulwark just
below the deck (no. 21). The three slots in the bulwark must be lined up over the frames. Use white glue or quick drying glue, fit
the bulwarks at the stern. At the bow the bulwarks must be fitted to each other.
PHOTO 28: Line the interior side of the bulwarks (no. 33) using the lining (no. 34). Trim off the excess lining and reopen the
openings. Mark the joins between lining strips in pencil. Gently sand down the whole of the lined surface.
PHOTO 29: Hold the bulwarks against the deck and the frames. Using the small tabs for correct positioning in line with the lower
frames, then pin and glue using quick drying glue.
PHOTO 30: Glue the bases (no. 35) to the inside of the bulwarks over the last two gun port openings. Repeat the operation on
the other side of the hull. Make sure they are well glued into place so that the guns can later be glued on in step 76.
PHOTO 31: Use the lining (no. 36) to cover the back side of the last frame. This lining should be applied in the shape of an ear
of corn, as shown in the photo. Leave the width of the keel without lining so that the stern post (no. 46) can be added later in
step 40.
PHOTOS 32 & 33: Before starting to line the hull soak one end of the lining strakes (no. 37) in water, so that the wood recovers
its elasticity in order to adapt to the most curved areas of the hull. Start applying the lining working from the underside of the
bulwarks. Apply glue to the frames and to both sides of the strakes so that they will stick to each other. Fix them in place with
pins. At the bow, leave a gap of 4 mm uncovered, so the stem (no. 40) can later be fitted into place, check this out in photo 38.
The gaps that remain between strakes must be filled using sections of strake coming to a point at both ends. Finally fit as many
wedge shaped sections as may be needed at the bow and the stern to complete this stage of the hull lining.
Once the lining process has been completed sand down the whole of the whole, in order to level off the strips, eliminating the
heads of the pins, and leaving the surface apt for the application of the second lining (no. 38).
PHOTOS 34 to 36: Go ahead with the fitting of the second lining (no. 38) on both sides of the hull, using contact glue. Attach
the lining (no. 39) to the bulwarks, and then reopen the holes that have been made in them.