OcCre 14002 JABEQUE Instrucciones De Montaje página 7

PHOTO 37: Recover the parts (no. 31), removed from the bulwarks in step 25, Line on both sides with pieces of lining the same
as used to line the bulwarks, and glue them in each of the oar holes. Use a pencil to emphasise the frames. Lightly sand down
the whole hull to unify the surface.
PHOTO 38: The stem (no. 40) must be glued into the 4 mm space left for it. Touch up the fit if necessary. The front part of the
bulwarks will have to be trimmed so that it can be inserted.
Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes (nos. 41 & 42) and then sand them down and soak them in water, so that they
gain elasticity at the bow end. Adjust them and glue them into place on the hull, using quick drying glue. The first rubbing strake
(no. 41) must cover the joint between the two linings of the hull, and the second (no. 42) as shown in plan 1. The rubbing strake
(no. 42) is glued into place above the first one (no. 41).
PHOTOS 39 & 40: Then glue the stem, the portions of the keel (nos. 43 & 44) and the last section of the keel (no. 45) into
place. Glue the stern post (no. 46) to the stern. Adjust the length of the part of the keel (no. 45) so that it is flush with the stern
post. Glue the stern transom (no. 47) to the end of the bulwarks and reinforce it with the brackets (no. 48).
PHOTOS 41 to 43: Put together the gratings (no. 49), making sure that all of the parts are well inserted and then glue them
using quick drying glue. From these complete parts extract portions for the different deck gratings. Assemble two complete
sections and fit them into the space shown at the stern.
PHOTO 44: Cut a length of the strip (no. 50) and glue it over the joint between the last grating strip and the last frame, as a
support.
PHOTOS 45 & 46: Glue the first timber (no. 51) flush with the extension of the stem and onto the hull. The second timber (no.
52) must be glued into place approximately 15 mm below the prolongation of the stem so that, when fitting the parts (nos. 53 to
56), they will be at the same height as the stem. Once dry, recess the timbers until they have the same depth as the slots in the
stem and sharpen the forward part so that the heard rails (no. 60) can later be adjusted. Glue the reinforcement (no. 57) to the
interior of the bulwarks, adjusting it if necessary.
PHOTO 47: Cut the separators (no. 58) to size and glue them into the slots in the stem. Assemble the gratings (no 59) and cut
out the necessary sections. Fit the gratings and glue them to the head rails (no. 60), closing the whole assembly. Glue the
stringers (no. 61) against the bulwarks and the deck.
PHOTO 48: Glue the two parts of the bowsprit support (no. 62) and centre it on the stem.
PHOTO 49: Cut and trim the stanchions (no. 63) and glue them to the stringer and the bulwarks. Glue the strip (no. 64) to the
stanchions, along the full length of the bulwarks. Assemble a complete grating and cut out the necessary section to make up the
grating (no. 65), then frame it using lengths of the strips (nos. 66 & 67).
PHOTO 50: Fit the stanchions (no. 63) as shown in the photo and onto them the strips (no. 68). Cut out another section of
grating (no. 69) and frame it using the strips (nos. 70 & 71).
PHOTOS 51 & 52: Decorate the door (no. 72) and fit it underneath the projecting deck, centred on the frame. Insert a ring into
one of the eyebolts and glue it into place on the door as a handle. On the profile of the bulwarks attach the limber boards (nos.
73, 74, 75 & 76). The limber boards can be stained using walnut stain or pitch.
PHOTOS 53 & 54: Fit the hinges and hinge pins to the rudder blade. When fitting the helm to the top first make a hole,
approximately 2 x 4 mm. If necessary cut the hinges to size, using pliers. The hinge pins (no. 79) are made up using 1.5 mm
diameter brass wire.Varnish the whole of the hull and the decks using colourless, satin-finish, pore-filler varnish (Carefully read
the manufacturer's instructions for use). All of the parts attached from this point on must be varnished before they are fitted.
Paint the areas shown using matt black acrylic paint. Finally attach the helm to the hull with hinges and pins.
PHOTO 55: Glue the frame end-pieces (no. 80) to cover the top part of the last frame. Glue the brackets (no. 81) into place
against the frame and the deck. Cut out a length of the strip (no. 82) and make a nick in one, to slot it onto the helm. Sand down
the edges of the strip so that they are rounded.
PHOTO 56: Using the sheets (no. 86) line the base (no. 83) and the holes (nos. 84 & 85). Fit them in place as shown in the
photo and frame the whole assembly using the strips (nos. 87, 88, 89, 90 & 91). Finally fit the necessary eyebolts and rings (B &
J).
PHOTO 57: Fit the foremast hole (no. 92) over the hole left for the mast to be inserted in. Behind this fit the knightheads (no. 93)
and the tack (no. 94), previously adjusting them if necessary. You can paint these dark brown or stain them using pitch to give
them the right colour.
PHOTOS 58 & 59: Fit the strip (no. 95) and glue it into place on the knightheads and over the limber boards. Using the strip
(nos. 96 & 97), make up the cat davits. Make a slot in the end so that the sheaves (no. 98) can be inserted, holding the shafts
(no. 99). The shafts must stick out approximately 2 mm for the later fitting of another sheave.
Cut and glue the foremast carling (no. 100) into place making sure that it does not obstruct the fitting of the mast, and onto this
glue the uprights (no. 101) and the carling (no. 102).
PHOTO 60: Line the base (no. 103) using the strips (no. 104). Frame the whole assembly using the strips (nos. 105 & 106).
Subsequently fit the necessary eyebolts and rings and glue them into place as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 61: Cut a length of the strip (no. 107) and glue onto it a cleat (no. 108), previously painted brown. Cut two lengths of the
strip (no. 109) and glue the bell tower (no. 110) onto them. The bell (no. 112) is attached to the bell tower using an eyebolt. Onto
each column of the bell tower glue a cleat (no. 111), previously painted light brown or cream.
Put together the draining pump assemblies using the parts (nos. 113 to 115). Glue an eyebolt to the lever and decorate the
assembly by painting it in light brown or cream and gold. Glue these into place as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 62: Cut a length of the strip (no. 116) and, using a file, file it down until it is as shown in the photo. Paint it light brown or
cream and glue it into place centred between the decks.
PHOTO 63: Glue the railing (no. 117) about 3 mm from the edge of the deck. Paint the brackets (no. 118) light brown and glue
them onto the deck and against the railing. Finish off the sides using lengths of the strip (no. 119) and then glue a length of the
strip (no. 20) over the top as a handrail. If you want you can paint this part light brown or cream.
PHOTO 64: Paint the whole adornment (no. 121) matt black and highlight all of the relieves in light brown or cream. Along the
front of the bulwarks glue the adornments (no. 122), also decorating them with black and light brown or cream to mark the relief.