DeWalt DW682 Manual De Instrucciones página 2

FIG 1 SPINDLE LOCK PIN
TIGE DE VERROUILLAGE DE L'ARBRE
PERNO DE SEGURIDAD DE LA FLECHA
ADJUSTABLE
FENCE
GUIDE
RÉGLABLE
GUIA
AJUSTABLE
FIXED SHOE
ANTI-SLIPPAGE PIN
PATIN FIXE
TIGE ANTIDÉRAPAGE
ZAPATA FIJA
PERNO ANTIDERRAPANTE
AUXILIARY HANDLE
POIGNÉE AUXILIAIRE
MANGO AUXILIAR
DUST EXHAUST PORT
BOUTON DE VERROUILLAGE EN MODE
DE FONCTIONNEMENT
PUERTO DEW ESCAPE DE POLVO
FIG 2
(LENGÜETAS PLANAS)
A. Adjustable Direction Elbow (See Figure 10)
This attachment inserts into the dust exhaust port on the right side at the rear of the
base assembly and clicks into place. To remove, pull out firmly. The directional elbow
rotates easily to aim the dust in the most convenient direction suitable for the particular
application.
B. Dust Adaptor (See Figure 11)
This attachment, when inserted as described above, allows the use of several common
sizes of vacuum hose to be attached for direct vacuum pick-up of the dust.
C. Dust Bag (See Figure 12)
The dust bag provided fits snugly over the dust adaptor described above. To empty the
bag, open the zipper underneath and dump dust out.
NOTE: When the bag becomes full, the dust will back-up into the adaptor and the
exhaust port on the right rear of the tool. To clean out, turn off and unplug the tool and
remove packed dust. The bag will hold the dust generated from approximately 70 to 100
#20 biscuit cuts before filling up.
OPERATION
WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power
source before installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making
repairs. An accidental start-up can cause injury.
Plate joiners are primarily used for making cabinetry and furniture, joining millwork or other similar
applications where a strong, accurate joint is required in wood or wood by-products. There are
literally hundreds of variations of joints that can be made with your Plate Joiner. We will limit our
discussion to six basic joints that can be used to build on and adapt to your own applications.
The following are some basic set-up steps that will apply to all biscuit joints.
1. BISCUIT SIZE SELECTION
As mentioned earlier, the three biscuit sizes are #0, #10 and #20. It is a good rule of
thumb to use the largest biscuit size that will physically fit in the application. Unless you are
joining narrow face or picture frames or using 1/2" or thinner stock, you will find the
#20 biscuit size to suit most applications. After selecting the biscuit size, set the depth
adjustment knob to the corresponding size (see Controls section). Also, be sure the fine
depth adjustment is correctly set by first testing in a scrap piece. This is extremely important
as you do not want to discover during glue-up that your biscuit slots are not quite deep
enough.
2. BISCUIT LOCATION AND LAYOUT
Generally, biscuits may be spaced and located at your discretion. For edge joints, a good
rule of thumb is to space biscuits every 6-10 inches on center. It is further recommended
that biscuits be placed so that the centerline of the end biscuits is 2-3 inches from the end
of the workpiece. When joining face frames or picture frames where the workpiece is narrow,
you may have to choose the smaller biscuit sizes to keep from "breaking out" on the end of
the joint. Breaking out should be avoided if possible, but if not you can assemble the joint
and trim off the exposed biscuit tip after the glue sets (see Figure 13). When working with
material up to 1" thick, we advise to use a single biscuit located in the approximate center
of the material thickness. If thicker stock is to be joined, you may choose to use 2 biscuits
across the thickness for greater strength (see Figure 14). Biscuit locations should be marked
by first positioning the mating pieces exactly as they are to be assembled. Next, make a
mark at 90° to the joint interface across both pieces at the desired biscuit locations (see
Figure 15). See Application section for more specific information on joint layout. The marks
you make will then be aligned with one of the center registration marks on the tool, again,
depending upon your specific application.
3. MAKING THE CUT
Prior to making any cut, be sure that all fence adjustments are set and lock knobs are tight.
Also, be sure you have selected the proper depth setting. Clamp your workpiece firmly and
align the plate joiner's center registration mark with your layout mark. Turn on the tool and let
the blade come up to full speed (approximately 1 second). Grasping the switch handle and
auxiliary handle and positioning the fence firmly and squarely against the workpiece, plunge
the blade until it bottoms against the stop. Continuing to hold the tool squarely and firmly,
allow the return spring to retract the blade from the work and then release the switch to shut
the tool off. It will take some practice to obtain a "feel" for the tool to produce accurate joints,
so practicing in scrap wood first is advisable.
4. JOINT ASSEMBLY
After your joints are cut, you may wish to trial fit everything together before gluing. When
you are satisfied with your joints, evenly spread any good quality woodworking glue in each
slot as well as on the mating flat surfaces of your joint. Place biscuits in the slots, assemble
the joint and clamp until dry. For a biscuit joint to be most effective, it is important that the
biscuits themselves be in contact with the glue. This is because the biscuits absorb the
moisture in the glue and expand to form a tight joint.
Applications
1. EDGE TO EDGE JOINTS (Fig. 16)
This is the simplest to make and most common joint for the plate joiner. Follow the steps
below to produce this joint.
A. Prepare the workpieces and lay them on a work surface exactly as they are to be
assembled.
B. Spacing biscuits 2-3" in from the ends and 6-10" apart, layout the biscuit centers.
C. Set up the plate joiner by first selecting the proper depth setting. Set the fence to 90°.
Set the height adjustment to position the biscuit in the approximate center of the stock
thickness.
D. Clamp the workpiece and position the tool so that the center indicator mark lines up with
the first layout mark (see Figure 17). Turn on the tool and make the plunge cut. Retract
the tool and release the trigger to turn the tool off. Repeat for each layout mark.
E. Glue, assemble and clamp the joint.
F. For stock thicker than 1", you may wish to use double biscuits at each location. Set the
height adjustment to allow at least 3/16" of stock between the biscuit and the edge of the
work surface. Make all cuts at this fence setting before readjusting the fence for the lower
cuts. Again, there should be at least 3/16" of stock between the biscuit and the outside
wall and between the biscuits themselves (see Figure 18).
2. FRAME JOINTS (Fig. 19)
Frame joints are an ideal application for biscuit joinery. With the plate joiner you can create
a very strong, precise joint that is much faster to make than a dowel or mortise and tenon
joint. Figure 19 shows two types of frame joints. Follow the steps outlined below.
A. Arrange the workpieces on a flat work surface exactly as they are to be assembled.
B. Select the proper biscuit size based on the length of the joint. (If the frame pieces are too
narrow for a #0 biscuit, you will have to allow the biscuit tip to protrude slightly and then
trim it off after the joint is dry (see Figure 13).
C. Lay out the biscuit locations.
D. Set up the tool by selecting the depth that corresponds to the chosen biscuit size. Lock
the fence at 90° and adjust the fence height to center the biscuit on the stock thickness.
E. Clamp the workpiece and position the Plate Joiner to make the first cut (see Figure 20).
F. Turn on the tool and make the plunge cut.
G. Repeat for each layout mark.
H. Glue, assemble and clamp the frame.
3. CORNER JOINTS (Fig. 21)
Corner joints are another common and excellent application for biscuit joinery. Follow the
procedure below.
A. Arrange the workpieces exactly as they are to be joined.
B. Select the biscuit size and layout the biscuit locations.
C. Set up the tool by selecting the proper depth setting, adjusting the fence to center on the
stock thickness and setting the angle to 90°.
D. For this joint, you will make cuts into the edge of one workpiece and the face of another.
The edge cut is performed the same as for edge to edge joints. The face cut is made
by clamping the workpiece and aligning the tool as shown in Figure 22. Turn the tool on,
make the plunge cut and repeat for each layout mark.
E. Glue, assemble and clamp the joint.
LOCK ON BUTTON
BOUTON DE VERROUILLAGE
PERILLA DE SEGURIDAD
TRIGGER SWITCH
INTERRUPTEUR À DÉTENTE
GATILLO INTERRUPTOR
PLUNGE DEPTH ADJUSTMENT KNOB
BOUTON DE RÉGLAGE DE LA PROFONDEUR
PERILLA DE AJUSTE DE PROFUNDIDAD DE
PENETRACION
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT KNOB
BOUTON DE RÉGLAGE DE LA HAUTEUR
PERILLA DE AJUSTE DE ALTURA
LOCK KNOB
BOUTON DE VERROUILLAGE
BOTON DE ENCENDIDO
PERMANENTE
(FLAT BISCUITS)
(BISCUITS PLATS)
FIG 3
FIG 4
FIG 6
EL INDICADOR APUNTA LA MARCA DE 1/2"
CENTRE DE LA LAME – 12 MM (1/2 PO)
FIG 7
FIG 8
FINE DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
RÉGLAGE DE PRÉCISION DE LA PROFONDEUR
AJUSTE FINO DE PROFUNDIDAD
FIG 9
TIGE ANTIDÉRAPAGE
PERENO ANTIDERRAPANTE
FIG. 10
ROTATE ELBOW FOR DESIRED
EXHAUST DIRECTION
FAIRE TOURNER LE COUDE DANS
LE SENS
D'ÉVACUATION VOULU
GIRE EL CODO EN LA
DIRECCION QUE DESEA QUE
ESCAPE EL POLVO
FIG 11
VACUUM HOSE
CONNECTION
ADAPTATEUR POUR BOYAU
D'ASPIRATEUR
CONEXION PARA
MANGUERA DE
ASPIRADORA
FIG 5
ADJUSTMENT KNOB
BOUTON DE RÉGLAGE
GUIA AJUSTABLE
LOCK KNOB
BOUTON DE RÉGLAGE DE LA HAUTEUR
AJUSTE FINO DE PROFUNDIDAD
POINTER POINTS TO 1/2" MARK
L'INDICATEUR MONTRE LA
MARQUE DE 12 MM (1/2 PO)
1/2" CENTERLINE OF BLADE
LINEA CENTRAL DE LA CUCHILLA 1/2"
RED MARK
MARQUE ROUGE
MARCA ROJA
ANTI-SLIPPAGE PIN