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• PLACEMENT OF HANDS DURING FEEDING
At the start of the cut, the left hand
holds the work firmly against the
tront table and fence, while the right
hand pushes the work toward the
knives. After the cut is under way, the
new surface rests firmly on the rear
table as shown in figure 7.
The right hand pushes the work forward and betore the right hand
reaches the cutterhead it should be moved to the work on the rear
table. NEVER PASS HANDS DIRECTLY OVER THE CUTTERHEAD.
• JOINTING AN EDGE
This is the most common operation for the jointer, set the guide
fence square with the table. Depth of cut should be the minimum
required to obtain a straight edge, hold the best face of the piece
firmly against the fence throughout the feed.
• JOINTING WARPED PIECES
If the wood to be jointed is dished or warped, take light cuts un-
til the surface is flat. Avoid forcing such material down against the
table; excessive pressure will spring it while passing the knives, and
it will spring back and remain curved atter the cut is completed.
• JOINTING SHORT OR THIN WORK
When jointing short or thin pieces,
use a push block to eliminate all
danger to the hands. Two types are
shown in figure 8 they are easily
made from scrap material.
• DIRECTION OF GRAIN
Avold feeding work into the jointer
against the grain as shown in fig-
ure 9, the result will be chlpped and
spllntered edges.
Feed with the grain as in figure 10 to
obtain a smooth surface.
• BEVEL
To cut a bevel, lock the fence at the required angle and run the work
across the knIves whIle keeping it firmly against the fence and table,
several passes may be necessary to arrive at, the desired result.
When the angle is small, there is little difference whether the fence
is tilted to the right or left, however, at greater angles approach-
ing 45 degrees, it is increasingly difficult to hold the work properly
when the fence is tilted to the right. The advantage of the double
tilting fence is appreciated under such conditions.
When tilted to the left, the fence forms a v-shape with the tables,
and the work is easily pressed into the pocket while passing it across
the knives. If the bevel is laid out on the piece in such direction that
this involves cutting against the grain, it will be better to tilt the
fence to the right.
• TAPER CUTS
One of the most useful jointer operation is cutting an edge to a
taper. The method can be used on a wide variety of work. Tapered
legs of furniture are a common example. Instead of laying the piede
onthe front table, lower the forward en of the work onto the rear
WORK PIECE
Rear
Front table
table
Cutterhead
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
WRONG; FEED
AGAINST THE GRAIN
Front table
Rear
table
Cutterhead
Fig. 9
CORRECT; FEED
WITH THE GRAIN
Front table
Rear
table
Cutterhead
Fig. 10
E N G L I S H •
table. Do this very carefully as the piece will span the knives, and
they will take a "bite" from the work with tendency to kick back
unless the piece is firmly held. Now push the work forward as in or-
dinary jinting. The effect is to plane off all the stock in front of the
knives, to increase depth, leaving a tapered surface.
The ridge left by the knives when starting the taper may be removed
by taking a very light cut according to the regular method for joint-
ing, with the front table raised to its usual position. Practice is re-
quired in this operation, and the beginner is advised to make trial
cuts on waste material.
Taper cuts over part of the lenght and a number of other special
operations can easily be done by the experienced craftsman.
MAINTENANCE
CUTTERHEAD MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
After considerable use, the knives will become dull and it will not be
possible to do accurate work.
Unless badly damaged by running into metal or other hard material,
they may be sharpened as follows:
WHETTING KNIVES
1. DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM
POWER SOURCE.
2.Use afine carborundum stone, cov-
er it partly with paper, as indicated
in figure 11, to avoid marking the
table.
3. Lay the stone on the front table, lower the table and turn the cut-
terhead forward until the stone lies flat on the bevel of the knife,
as shown.
4. Hold the cutter head from turning, and whet the bevelled edge
of the knife, stroking lengthwise by sliding the stone back and forth
across the table.
5. Do the same amount to whetting on each af the three blades.
BLADE CARE
Gum and pitch which collects on the blades causes excessive friction
as the work continues, resulting in over heating the blades, less ef-
ficient cutting, and consequently loss of blade life, use "Gum and
Rust Remover" to wipe this off the blades.
When these blades become dull enough so that it is noticeable whe
cutting, they should be resharpened. A sharp blade works easier and
resultis in longer blade life. The penalty paid for a dull blade is less
blade life and greater wear and tear on all parts of the machine.
In time rust may appear on the table and fence and other parts of
the jointer resulting in less efficieny and accuracy of the machine.
Use paste wax which can be applied to prevent rust formation, of
however, rust has already formed on these parts use "Rust remover"
which will restore the machine to its original accuracy when applied.
LUBRICATION
We suggest using a good grade of light grease on the steel adjust-
ing screws for the raising and lowering mechanisms of the front and
rear work tables. Occasionally apply a few drops of light machine
oil to the gibs on the right side of each work table so the tables
will slide freely in relation to the base casting. The cutterhead runs
in two single row sealed and shielded ball bearings, which are pre-
lubricated for their entire life.
CUTTERHEAD REPAIRS
When the knives of the cutterhead cannot be properly sharpened
to produce a nice smooth and clean cut by the methods described
above, they must be ground to a new bevel edge. In this case, or
U s e r ' s m a nua l
OILSTONE PARTLY COVER
WITH PAPER
Front table
Rear
table
Cutterhead
Fig. 11
9
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