Optional ailerons
If you wish to fly the model with just rudder / elevator
controls, skip stages 10 - 14 Abb.36-39. The servo wells
can be sealed later using the decals supplied.
The model flies equally well as a rudder / elevator or "full-
house" model with the same dihedral. This means that
you can convert the model to aileron control at any time.
.....................................
If you wish to fly the model with aileroms („full-house"
control), resume construction at this point:
10. Releasing the ailerons, installing the aileron
servos
Cut through the wing 6 at both ends of the ailerons to
release them. Move the ailerons to and fro repeatedly at
the hinge line to free up the hinges. Do not cut off the
ailerons!
Fig. 36
11. Installing the aileron servos
Set the servos to "neutral" from the transmitter. Fit the
output arms on the servos so that the arms are at 90° to
the long case sides; prepare one left-hand servo and one
right-hand servo in this way.
Offer up the servos to the moulded recesses in the wing 6;
you may need to make minor adjustments to suit the servos
you intend to fit. Apply a drop of hot-melt glue in the slots
in the wing for the servo mounting lugs, and immediately
press the servo into the recess. Apply a little more glue
afterwards if necessary.
Fig. 37
12. Deploying the aileron servo leads
Deploy the servo leads towards the wing centre; you may
need to use extension leads. Place the lead in a straight
line along the front edge of the spar well, standing on edge.
The leads must project by about 120 mm at the wing root,
so that they can be connected to the receiver when you
assemble the model. Fix the leads in the centre of the
wing with a drop of hot-melt glue.
13. Attaching the aileron horns
Insert the pushrod connectors 25 in the outermost hole in
the aileron horns 24. Secure them with the washers 26
and nuts 27. Caution: prepare one left-hand horn, one
right-hand horn! Tighten the nuts carefully (don't overtighten
them), and secure each with a tiny drop of paint or cyano,
applied on a pin. Fit the socket-head grubscrews 28 in the
pushrod connectors 25 using the allen key 29. Glue the
horns 24 in the recesses in the ailerons using activator
and cyano; the row of holes must be at the hinge line.
Fig. 38
14. Installing the aileron pushrods
Connect the pre-formed end of the steel pushrods 30 to
the innermost hole of the servo output arms, and slip the
plain end through the pushrod connectors 25. Set the
ailerons and servos to neutral and tighten the grubscrews
28 to lock them.
Fig. 39
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15. When the model is assembled, the wing is attached to
the fuselage using the plastic screw 32. Fig. 40
16. Installing the receiving system
The remaining RC system components can now be installed
in the cabin area, and the flight battery installed. It is
important to position the battery in such a way that the
model balances at the stated CG position. See Fig. 43.
It is possible to fit many different types and shapes of
battery in the front end of the fuselage. If it is not possible
to obtain the correct CG by re-positioning the battery, lead
ballast can be fitted at the nose or tail.
The kit is supplied with self-adhesive hook-and-loop tape
20 + 21 for securing the RC components. However, the
adhesive on the tape is not always adequate, so it should
also be glued in place with cyano.
Place the receiver vertically in the fuselage, behind the
wing retaining screw. Run the wire aerial out of the fuselage
and tape it to the underside at the tail. The excess length
can simply be left trailing freely.
The motor supplied is fitted with basic suppressors as
standard, and this level of suppression is adequate provided
that you use the recommended MULTIcont X-16 speed
controller, # 7 2271.
If you wish to use a different controller, it is advisable to fit
additional suppressors to the motor. A suppressor set is
available for this purpose under # 8 5020. Solder one 47
nF capacitor between each motor terminal and the motor
can, and the third 47 nF capacitor between the motor
terminals to form a bridge.
Fitting the propeller
Before the first test run the propeller has to be fitted on the
motor shaft. Please check that the propeller is firmly fixed.
The spinner and propeller should be pushed onto the motor
shaft and secured with a drop of glue after roughening the
shaft with abrasive paper. For the Günther propeller use 5-
minute epoxy; cyano works better with the MPX propeller.
When you have completed the wiring you can carry out an
initial test-run, but please allow the glue to harden before
you do this.
Don't connect the battery to the speed controller until
you have switched the transmitter on, and have
checked that the throttle control is at the "OFF"
position.
Switch the transmitter on, connect the flight battery in the
model to the speed controller, and the controller to the
receiver. The controller you use must be what is known as
a BEC type, i.e. with an integral receiver power supply
drawn from the flight battery.
Now switch the motor on briefly and check once more that
the propeller is rotating in the correct direction. Note: when
test-running the motor always remove all light objects from
the area in front of and behind the model, and hold the
aeroplane firmly.
Caution: even small motors and propellers are
capable of inflicting painful injuries!
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