Installation - Gazzini ECHT-CARBON-LENKER STREET X Instrucciones De Uso

You then need to loosen the rubber grips. A professional would blow compressed air between the
rubber and the handlebar. At home you can just as well squirt a little dishwashing liquid or brake
cleaner (do not use oil, petrol or other fuels) under the grip using a disposable syringe.
IMPORTANT!
Risk of damage!
• If the grip is glued to the switch unit or the handlebar, carefully cut it away with
a utility knife.
• You can then undo and take off the switch units with a suitable cross-head
screwdriver.
• Remove the brake pump from the handlebar. Always wrap the cables of the
brake light switch and the brake pump unit in a cloth and rest them, the right
way up, on the light mount, for example.
Do the same with the clutch unit.
Now you can completely remove the handlebar from the handlebar clamps. Once the handlebar
is detached, it's easy to remove the throttle twistgrip unit without having to disconnect the throttle
cable.

4.3 | Installation

If the new handlebar has a different clamp diameter, unscrew the existing handlebar clamps from the
triple tree and replace them with clamps that are the right fit for your new handlebar.
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Next, loosely mount the control units on the new handlebar and align the handlebar to suit your riding
style and the lines of the bike. Make sure that the handlebar doesn't hit the tank or fairing at full lock!
Once the handlebar is in its final position, you can tighten the clamps to the torque specified by the
manufacturer, but not more than 25 Nm.
If the switch units have locking pins, you will need to drill holes with the diameter of the pins in the
handlebar.
First, make absolutely sure that you have found the best installation position for the handlebar
and switch units. Also take into account the length of your grips used and the position of the bar
ends. Re-check that the switch units do not hit the tank or fairing with the handlebar at full lock, and
carefully mark the holes for the locking pins on the handlebar with a marker pen.
Alternatively, you can stick some masking tape around the handlebar and use the switch unit locking
pin to make an impression in the masking tape. Masking tape is perfect for making punch-marks to
assist drilling. If you're absolutely certain that you've found the best position for your switch units
and have correctly marked the drill holes, you can now drill holes with the diameter of the locking
pins in one side of the handlebar tube.
The best and safest way to do this is to use a drilling jig (sold separately) for tubular handlebars and
a depth stop (to avoid drilling right through the handlebar). Drill the required hole at a relatively low
speed. Carefully deburr the hole after drilling.
Now install the switch units, controls, grips and bar ends in their final position, aligning the brake
pump and clutch control so that you can operate them with the right amount of force. If the
clutch and brake levers are optimally aligned, your forearm should form a straight line with your
outstretched fingers resting on the levers. Check that the throttle twistgrip unit is fully functional – it
must automatically spring back into the idle position when released.
Congratulations, you've finished converting your handlebar! Check all functions (throttle, clutch,
brake, switch units, choke) before setting off for the first time.
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