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In-Use: Fence Positioning
7.
To position your fence for use with a common edge (bearing) bit, start
by loosening the individual fence faces and positioning them as close as
possible to the cutter, without making contact with the bit. Rotate the bit
with your hand and make sure that the fence faces do not make contact.
Once the faces are correctly positioned, bridge the gap between the two
with a straight edge, and position it so the straight edge contacts the bit's
ball bearing and both fence faces simultaneously, as shown.
To position your fence for use with common non-edge (bearing-less)
bits, start by loosening the individual fence faces and positioning them
as close as possible to the cutter without making contact with the bit, just
as you would with a common edge bit. Rotate the bit with your hand and
make sure the fence faces do not make contact. Once the faces are
correctly positioned, bridge the gap between the two with a straight edge,
and position it so the straight edge contacts the bit and both fence faces
simultaneously, just as you would with a bearing bit. Once the fence is
positioned correctly, release the tape slider and adjust it so that it reads "0"
on the Precision Lens Cursor. Tighten the tape into place and adjust the
fence away from the blade until your desired cutting depth is displayed on
the Precision Lens Cursor.
In-Use: Jointing
The Kreg Precision Router Table Fence features fully independent
fence faces which allow the fence to double as a vertical jointer. To
set up the jointer, begin by loosening the out-feed face -- being careful
not to go to far and disconnect the screw from the Jam Nut -- and
removing the two Jointing Rods (#15) which are stored in the back of
the fence, as shown.
There are two sets of shallow recesses behind the face, which allows
you to offset the out-feed fence face 1/16" or 1/32" from the in-feed fence
face. To position the fence at the 1/16" setting, slide the rods into the
corresponding shallower recesses, as shown in the left photo. To position
the fence at the 1/32" setting, slide the rods into the corresponding deeper
recesses, as shown in the right photo. When the rods are inserted, and
you have the correct depth setting, re-tighten the fence face to the fence.
When jointing, it's always best to make light passes so you'll probably
use the 1/32-in. offset more frequently. Any straight bit can be used
for jointing, but a fl ush trim bit is the easiest to set up. Since the
bearing is the same diameter as the cutter, you can directly align the
fence with the bearing.
Use a scrap piece of wood to test the fence position. If, as you
feed the material, it butts into the out-feed fence, the fence is too far
forward and you're not removing enough material. Move the fence
back a little. (Guard removed for photo clarity.)
If you get a snipe at the trailing edge of the cut, the fence is too far
back, and you're removing too much material.
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