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F
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OPERATION
Place the workpiece flat on the mitre table with one
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edge securely against the fence. If the board is
warped, place the convex side against the fence (13)
and clamp the vice (12) (Fig. 28a). If the concave
edge of a board is placed against the fence (13), the
board could collapse on the blade at the end of the
cut, jamming the blade (Fig. 28b).
When cutting long pieces of timber or molding,
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support the opposite end of the stock with the
material supports.
Press and hold the laser on/off switch (1) to turn the
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laser on.
Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of
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saw blade.
Use the vice (12) to secure the workpiece against the
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fence (13).
WARNING
To avoid serious personal injury, keep your
hands outside no hands zone; at least 75 mm
from the blade. Never perform any cutting
operation freehand (without holding workpiece
against the fence). The blade could grab the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the
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cutting operation just to make sure that no problems
will occur when the cut is made.
Grasp the saw handle firmly, then squeeze the
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trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
Press the release level for locking the lower guard
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and then slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop
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rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece.
SUPPORT LONG WORKPIECES (Fig. 33)
The two material supports (8) are designed to support
timber so it does not sag. The material supports should
let the workpiece lay flat on the base of the saw and the
work table during the cutting operations. Use the vice to
secure the workpiece.
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English
CUTTING LARGER WORKPIECES WITH SLIDE
ACTION (Fig. 34, 35 & 36)
When cutting large workpieces with the slide action,
the workpiece is placed squarely against the rear fence
and is firmly locked in the vice.
Unscrew the slide lock (21).
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Grasp the saw handle (25) firmly (Fig. 34).
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Slide the cutting head away from the fence (24) to the
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outermost position, then depress the trigger (3) (Fig. 35).
Slowly lower the blade into and through the
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workpiece and push the cutting head to have the
blade through the larger workpiece towards the
sliding fence (24) (Fig. 36).
WARNING
Never place undue force on the saw handle in a
right or left direction as this will misalign the head
and result in an inaccurate cut.
LAYING MOLDING FLAT ON THE MITRE
TABLE (Fig. 37)
To use this method for accurately cutting crown
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molding for a 90° inside or outside corner, lay the
molding with its broad back surface flat on the mitre
table (11) and against the fence (13).
When setting the bevel and mitre angles for
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compound mitres, remember that the settings are
interdependent; changing one angle changes the
other angle as well.
Keep in mind that the angles for crown moldings are
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very precise and difficult to set. Since it is very easy
for these angles to shift, all settings should first be
tested on scrap molding. Also most walls do not have
angles of exactly 90°, therefore you will need to fine
tune your settings.
When cutting crown molding by this method the bevel
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angle should be set at 33.85°. The mitre angle should
be set at 31.62° either right or left, depending on the
desired cut for the application. See the chart below
for correct angle settings and correct positioning of
crown molding on mitre table.
The settings in the chart below can be used for
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cutting all standard crown molding with 52° and 38°
angles. The crown molding is placed flat on the mitre
table using the compound features of your mitre saw.
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