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ports reopened using a cutter. The lining must be carried out on both sides of the hull. It is important for the sides of the strakes
to be well aligned as the hull will only be lined once, and if there are gaps between them the aspect will not be optimum.
PHOTO 31. The lining must continue from the top to the bottom of the gun ports. Open the gun ports again as you do the lining,
so that they are not hidden. Use white glue and pins.
PHOTO 32. The strakes must completely cover the reinforcing chocks, but must not cover the 5 mm. thickness of the false keel.
Do not forget to open the square openings that make up the gun ports.
PHOTOS 33 & 34. The strakes must reach as far as the bottom of the upper stern. If the strakes have been dampened it will be
easier to adapt them to the rounded shape of the stern. The inside of each gun port must be painted with matt black paint, to
give a sensation of depth.
PHOTO 35. Glue and pin the lining strakes, no. 41, continuing from the lining strakes, no. 40 from beneath the gun ports
towards the bottom of the hull. In the same way the lining must be continued from the false keel towards the top, to seal the hull.
PHOTO 36. The gaps that remain at the centre of the hull are filled using sections of strake sharpened at both ends. Sections of
strake sharpened at one end, wedges, will also be used to fill gaps.
Once the lining process is finished, sand down the hull in order to level out all of the strakes and eliminate the pin heads. If
significant gaps remain these can be covered using wood filler of the same colour.
PHOTOS 37 to 39. Select the strips for making up the rubbing strakes nos. 42 and 43. Sand down the strips and soak them in
water so that they become more elastic. Adjust them and glue them to the hull using quick setting glue, having first checked
plan 1. Now open the slots at the top and the end of the bulwarks. Glue 6 more of the pieces, no. 34, to the inside of the
bulwarks.
PHOTO 40. The stem must be glued into the 5 mm. space reserved for it. Adjust it to the same curvature as the false keel,
check in plan 2.
PHOTO 41. The stern post, no. 45, must be glued to the back of the hull. Adjust the length so that it is at the same level as the
false keel, if necessary.
PHOTO 42. Now glue the stem in place, along with two sections of the keel, no. 4, and finally section no. 47.
PHOTO 43. Cut and glue the three beams, no. 48, onto the prolongation of the last frames. These beams will serve to support
the quarter deck.
PHOTO 44. Now line the bulkhead, no. 49, with the liner no. 50, using contact glue and trim off any excess. If necessary adjust
the deck and glue it into the indicated place using quick setting glue.
PHOTO 45. The inside of both bulwarks must be lined using the liner no. 51. The openings in the bulwarks must be opened up
again.
PHOTO 46. Deck no. 52 is then lined with the planking, no. 53, following the same procedure as for the others. The openings in
the centre must once more be opened up. The slots at the sides should not be opened up.
PHOTO 47. Glue the deck to the stern, as shown in the photo. It may be necessary to retouch the front part, so that the sides
will be well adjusted to the bulwarks that you lined above.
PHOTO 48. Glue the upper stern, no. 54, centred. You can use quick setting or white glue to do this, with pins to hold it in
position.
PHOTO 49. Cut out and glue into place the battens, no. 55, between the strakes. Another layer of the same size must then be
glued onto these. The battens, no. 56, must then be glued onto the bottom strakes using quick setting glue.
PHOTO 50. Cut and glue the parts, nos. 57, 58 and 59, onto the hull and the stem. Dampen the strips that will have to be
curved and use quick setting glue. The heads, no. 60, must be glued onto the front of the first frame (check plan 2 for an
approximate location) and a 3 mm. diameter hole made in each one.
PHOTO 51. Glue the waterway, no. 61, to the deck, making sure it does not jut out beyond it. Cut the limber boards, nos. 62 and
63, to size and glue them centred on the bulwarks, using quick setting glue.
PHOTO 52. The limber boards, nos. 64 and 65, must also be cut to size and glued into place centred on the bulwarks.
PHOTO 53. Before fitting the limber board, no. 66, line the interior of the upper stern using the 1x3 Ramin wood sheets.
PHOTO 54. Make the openings for fitting the anchor davits in the bulwarks. These openings must be made 2 mm. above the
level of the deck. Parts no. 67 are then made up using a strip. With a 3 mm. drill bit perforate the entry for the anchor cables.
PHOTO 55. Cut out and, using quick setting glue, glue parts nos. 68, 69 and 70 to the front of the quarter deck.
PHOTO 56. The coamings, nos. 71 and 72, are also glued to the profile of the opening in the deck.
PHOTO 57. Using a 4x4 mm, strip of Ramin wood make up the bow samson posts. Make the rebate shown in the photo.
PHOTO 58. Adjust and glue the limber board, no. 74, between the bulwarks. Then fit the samson posts that you have made up,
using quick setting glue.
PHOTO 59. Make up the samson posts, no. 75, also using the 4x4 mm. strips, using the measurements shown in the photo.
PHOTO 60. Glue the samson posts onto the limber board (check plan 2 to do so). Now varnish the whole of the hull and decks
with colourless, satin-finish, pore-filler varnish (Carefully read the manufacturer's usage instructions).
PHOTO 61 & 62. Cut and give shape to the davits, making the holes indicated, and then glue them into place in the openings
made in the bulwarks (see plan 2).
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