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PHOTO 95. Glue the bases of the quarter gallery, no. 152, flush with the bottom of the upper stern and the bases, no. 154, in
the slot left in the bulwarks. The base, no. 153, is then glued, approximately in the centre between the two. The strips, nos. 155,
are cut to the size of the distance between the strakes, in front of the bases.
PHOTO 96. File the edges of the bases so that, when lined with the strips, no. 156, they will be well seated. Use quick setting
glue. Trim off the excess of the strips, that stick out beyond the top and bottom bases. Sand down all of the strips to unify the
surface. Glue the quarter caps, no. 157, in place.
PHOTO 97. Before gluing any of these parts they must first be painted, the background sky blue, the windows white and the
railings in gold. The photos show them unpainted, so that they can be better identified. Start by gluing parts nos. 158 and 162, in
ascending order, and without them covering the 2 mm. thickness of the upper stern. Glue the strips, no. 163, to close off the
front of the windows.
PHOTO 98. Cut to size and glue the finials, nos. 164 and 165, at top and bottom, without sticking out beyond the bases. Strip
no. 166 will close off the quarter gallery sides. Cut to size and glue the finials that separate the windows.
PHOTOS 99 & 100. Finish off the top of the upper stern using another section of the strip, no. 166. The aftrail, no. 168, is glued
onto the top base. Photo 100 shows the final decoration of the quarter gallery, with the strips painted brown and gold.
PHOTO 101. Cut the stem gratings to size and glue them in place as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 102. Cut all of the side pin racks and make as many holes in them as indicated in plan 2. These can be glued sideways
onto the bulwarks and below the limber boards. The diameter of these holes is the same as the thickness of the pins "J" (see
plan 2). Glue the brackets, no. 148, into place to reinforce the bell tower.
PHOTO 103. Join the clump block "G and H" to the chain plate, no. 170, using the slings, no. 171. Attach the chain plate to the
hull using the pins "A". Finish off following the same steps as for the other channels. See plan 1 and the close up photos.
PHOTO 104. The bowsprit knighthead, no. 172, is glued to the stem and the bow deck. The entry hole will have to be retouched
once the bowsprit has been made up, see plan 3.
PHOTO 105. The upper stern decoration, no. 173, is made of a ductile material, Give it the same shape as the upper stern and
hull and decorate before fitting parts nos. 174, 175 and 176 (see the next photo), use quick setting glue.
PHOTO 106. The upper stern must be laid out and decorated as shown in the photo. A strip, no. 177, is placed along the
bottom, shutting off the bottom, decorated in gold.
PHOTO 107. Attach the chain, no. 178, to the hull at the bow, using the eyebolts and rings.
PHOTOS 108 & 109. Make up the fanal assemblies, one large and using parts nos. 179, 180, 181 and 182, and the other small
using parts nos. 179, 180, 183 and 184. The red decoration is cut from the figures plan 9, which includes the red boxes. Use the
windows, nos. 181 and 183, as a template for cutting out the necessary shapes, and fit them to the inside before attaching the
bonnets, nos. 182 and 184. The fanals are then glued to the upper stern, having previously made the holes.
PHOTO 110. Insert and flue the anchor stocks, no 186, to the anchors, no. 185 and attach the rings "K". Fix the cable, no. 187,
to the ring at the end of the anchor and reinforce it with a tie. Tie a pulley "E" to the ring.
PHOTO 111. Now start to assemble the barge. Prepare all of the parts that make up the skeleton, and assemble them, without
gluing, on the false keel.
PHOTO 112. Fit the false keel and the central frame on the base. Glue the false keel and all of the frames to the base using
quick drying glue so that they are glued in place.
PHOTO 113. Glue all of the frames in the contact area with the false keel and add the upper stern and the bow reinforcements.
Use fast drying glue. Paint the assembly brown.
PHOTO 114. Having made sure that the parts are well glued together, sand them down from bow to stern and bevel the edges,
ready for lining the hull.
PHOTO 115. The sanding down must also be done from stern to bow, to ensure that the lining will be well seated.
PHOTO 116. The lining is attached from the false keel working towards the middle of the hull. The frames in the area closest to
the base are marked to show the starting point for the first lining strip. Use quick setting glue.
PHOTO 117. The finish of the lining is at the centre of the hull, with strips sharpened at both ends. Both sides of the hull must be
lined. For a better finish the gaps between strips can be filled with furniture repair putty and then the whole surface smoothed
down with a file. If you ant you can paint the hull cream.
PHOTO 118. Paint or dye the strakes, before fitting them in place. The position of these is five millimetres above the first liner
strip.
PHOTO 119. Using a saw trim the liner flush, to free the hull from the base.
PHOTO 120. Cut the board at the bottom of the hull to size and glue into place with quick setting glue. The frames have had
some 4 mm. trimmed off the top.
PHOTO 121. Dyed strips have been placed between each frame to simulate more frames. Cut the benches to size and glue
them in place at intervals as in the photo.
PHOTO 122. Glue the corresponding stem and the keel, taken from a strip.
PHOTO 123. The limber boards will cover the whole profile of the hull lining strips. Glue the corresponding rudder and tiller in
place. Curt out and glue the bases of the thole pins (pins "A"). Varnish the whole assembly, except for the areas that have been
painted.
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