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the horizontal clamp to the holes(qq) as shown in
Figure 30.
WARNING: Always use the clamps when cutting
non-ferrous metals.
WARNING: Always use both of vertical clamp and
horizontal clamp when cutting small pieces.
Cutting Aluminum Extrusion (Fig. 31)
WARNING: Never attempt to cut thick or round
aluminum extrusions. Thick aluminum extrusions
may come loose during operation and round
aluminum extrusions cannot be secured firmly
with this tool.
When securing aluminum extrusions, use spacer blocks
or pieces of scrap as shown in the Fig. 31 to prevent
deformation of the aluminum.Use a cutting lubricant when
cutting the aluminum extrusion to prevent build-up of the
aluminum material on the blade.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and
Other Four-sided Projects (Fig. 32, 33)
Trim Moulding And Other Frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you
develop a "feel" for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool
for mitring corners like the one shown in figure 32. The
joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.
Using Bevel Adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each,
producing a 90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero
position. The wood is positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
Using Mitre Adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the
broad surface against the fence.
The two sketches (Fig. 32, 33) are for four side objects
only. As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and
bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for
a variety of shapes, assuming that all sides are of equal
length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, divide
180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or
bevel angle.
No. of sides
Angle mitre or bevel
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound Mitre (Fig. 32, 33, 34, 35)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle
(Fig. 32) and a bevel angle (Fig. 33) at the same
time. This is the type of cut used to make frames
or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in
figure 34.
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to
cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the
mitre lock knob are securely tightened. These
knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or mitre.
♦ The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the
proper bevel and mitre settings for common compound
mitre cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle
"A" (Fig. 35) of your project and locate that angle on the
appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and
straight across to find the correct mitre angle.
0
5
10
15
45
40
35
6 SIDED BOX
30
25
20
15
10
8 SIDED BOX
5
0
5
10
15
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
♦ Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few
trial cuts.
♦ Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
♦ Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior
angles (angle "A") (Fig. 35), use the upper right arc.
Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal
intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle
setting on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical
intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel
angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a few
scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
Cutting Base Mouldings
Always tighten the rail lock knob (ddd) and sliding stop
(ggg) during base moulding cut.
The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel
angle.
♦ Always make no load running without power before
making any cuts.
♦ All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying
flat on the saw.
Inside Corner
Left Side
1.
Position the moulding with top of the moulding
against the fence.
2.
Save the left side of the cut.
ENGLISH
ENGLISH
20
25
30
35
40
45
SQUARE BOX
20
25
30
35
40
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
51
23
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