Publicidad
PHOTO 50. Glue the bulkhead (40), inserting the lugs on the bottom side into the slots in the quarter deck.
PHOTO 51. Glue one of the bulkheads (41) to one of the bulkheads (42) and then use a file to round off the corner of the join,
as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 52. Glue the bulkheads (41 & 42) onto the quarter deck, fitting them into the slots in the aft bulkhead and the deck.
PHOTO 53. Cut out the sections of screen (44 & 46) from the Part Identification (PI) Sheet and glue them onto the back of the
doors and windows (43 & 45).
PHOTO 54. Insert a 3 mm ø ring into an eyebolt. Glue the eyebolt to the door and cut off the stem of the eyebolt. Glue the doors
and windows to the bulkheads distributed as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 55-56. Line the deck (47) using the planking (48) and then glue it onto the structure as shown in the photo. Adjust the
length of the crossbeam (49) and then glue it in place below the deck.
PHOTO 57. File down the side of the deck (47), making it flush with the bulwark, and then glue the planking (50) onto it. Also
glue one of the gun ports (21) to each bulwark.
PHOTOS 58-59. Line the section of deck (51) using the planking (52). Glue the deck into place and then line the first frame
using the planking (53).
PHOTOS 60-61. Glue eleven gun ports (54) onto the frames on each side of the hull. Glue another two gun ports into place on
the stern.
PHOTO 62. In order to achieve a good contact surface for the hull lining strakes use a sanding block or a file to round off the
edges of the frames working from stern to bow. Check out the following photos to get an idea of how the filing down should
be done. These steps must be followed on both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 63. The filing/sanding must be done along the full length of the hull. The edges of the decks must also be adjusted so
that the strakes can be fitted in place correctly.
PHOTO 64. Also sand down the frames working from stern to bow. For the parts of the hull that are most curved using a half-
round file will be a great help.
PHOTO 65. For the flatter areas of the hull a sanding block will be of more use.
PHOTO 66. This photo shows the difference between the bow areas that has been sanded down from the part that has not.
PHOTO 67. In the bow area you must sand down the gun ports so that they take on the same curvature as the reinforcing
pieces, as shown.
PHOTO 68. Line the area around the gun ports, using the planking (55). Start off by gluing the first strip flush with the bottom of
the gun ports. As the work advances you must trim off the part of the planking that covers the gun port holes.
PHOTO 69. Adjust one of the strips of Sapelli wood to glue the planking (56) onto the last frame, as shown.
PHOTO 70. Trim off the strips, flush with the frame and then, using a half-round file, file down the edges until they have the
same slope as the frame.
PHOTO 71. Before starting to fit the hull lining strakes it is advisable to soak them in water for half an hour, so that they become
more elastic and do not break when you bend them. Apply the glue and glue the strakes (57) into position, starting at the top as
shown in the photo. Pin the strakes to the frames using the pins (A). The strakes also have to be glued to each other and must
be lined up very close together. Both sides of the hull must be lined at the same time.
PHOTOS 72-73. Any excess length of strake must be trimmed off flush with the stern and the false keel, respecting the
thickness of the false keel, so that the stem can later be fitted into place. The strakes must also be trimmed back where they
cover the holes of the gun ports. Start to fit the lining (58) at the top of the hull, as shown. Paint the interior of the gun ports of
the first battery and when the paint has dried glue on the blanks (23), from the inside.
PHOTO 74. Paint the bulwarks (59) red and glue them into place.
PHOTO 75. Keep on adding the lining (58) until the bulwarks are completely lined, trim off any excess and then, using a file,
make sure that the lining is flush with the bulwarks.
PHOTOS 76-77. You must also round off the top part of the frames that remain visible. These photos show how the edges of
the lining must end up.
PHOTO 78. Paint the interior of the gun ports red and then glue on the blanks from the interior side of the frame.
PHOTOS 79-80. Below the lining strakes (57) start to fit the strakes (60). These strakes must cover the bottom part of the hull,
working down towards the false keel. Likewise the lining must continue from the false keel towards the strakes (57), to complete
the lining of the hull.
Use white glue to glue the hull lining strakes in place and pins to pin them to the frames. The spaces that are left in the centre of
the hull must be filled using sections of strake that have been sharpened at both ends, or sections that have only been
sharpened at one end, as required.
Once you have completed the lining work, sand down the whole surface of the hull, to level off the lining strips and eliminate the
heads of the pins. If there are any significant gaps, these can be filled using a wood repairing filler that is the same colour.
PHOTOS 81-82. Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes (61 & 62). Sand down these strips and soak them in water so
they will become more flexible. Fit the rubbing strakes into place and flue them to the hull using fast-drying glue. Make up the
chaffing boards (63) and glue them into place, and then reopen the gun ports.
ASSEMBLY PACK No. 3
PHOTO 83. Remove parts (64 & 65) from the sheet. Sand them off and glue them in place as indicated in the next photo.
PHOTO 84. Place the ship upside down and glue into place the parts (64, 65, 66, 67, 68 & 69).
Publicidad
