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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
FRIGATE MERCEDES
HULL
PHOTOS 1–4: Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames in place
make sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is
important that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel, so that the decks will fit smoothly. Also fit the
knightheads (nos. 13 and 14). For this operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as an adhesive.
PHOTO 5: Glue the struts (no. 15) to the last frame, using white glue.
PHOTO 6: Glue the frame (no. 16) onto the struts, using white glue.
PHOTOS 7 & 8: Line the two halves of the deck (no. 17) using the planking (no. 18). Start the lining from the straightest area.
Use contact glue (cobbler's glue) as an adhesive. Trim off the excess lining using a cutter. Do not trim away the excess lining
from the slots, indicated in step 10. In order to simulate the planking and caulking of the decks, using a pencil, mark out the lines
that delimit the sheets of lining.
PHOTOS 9–10: Glue the lined decks onto the structure of the ship. It is important that the decks are correctly supported by the
frames. Note that the indicated slots are hidden by the lining of the deck. For this process use a quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 11: Make up the beams (no. 19), from a 5 x 5 mm strip, using white glue.
PHOTOS 12 & 13: Make up the bases (no. 20), from a 4 x 15 mm strip. Make sure that they are lined up flush with the end of
the frames and do not jut out beyond them. Make sure that they are held firmly in place, as the gun shanks will be pinned to
them. Use white glue.
PHOTOS 14–17: Following the same procedure as for Photos 7 & 8, Line the main deck (no. 21) using the planking (no. 22).
The slots made all round the perimeter of the deck must be covered over by this lining. Only the holed in the centre of the deck
will be opened up again. Glue the lined decks onto the structure of the ship. It is important that the decks are correctly attached
to the top part of the frames. For this process use a quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 18: Glue the knightheads (no. 23), one onto each side of the false keel, using white glue.
PHOTOS 19 & 20: Glue the reinforcing struts, (nos. 24, 25 and 26) to the false keel at the bow and at the stern.
PHOTO 21: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the bulwarks (no. 27), with the help of a sander or a file, sand or file
down the edge of the frames, working from bow to stern. This operation is only carried out on the step cut into all of the
frames. Check out the more advanced steps to get an idea of where the bulwarks will be fitted. These steps are repeated on
both sides of the hull.
PHOTOS 22 & 23: Continue filing all along the hull. The profile of the main deck must also be adjusted to ensure that the
bulwarks (no. 27) will sit well. Also file down in the stern area.
PHOTO 24: To ensure greater flexibility on the bulwarks, dampen the front part, using hot water. Take great care not to snap
the part in two.
PHOTO 25: Glue and pin the bulwarks (no. 27) to the hull structure using the pins (A). These must be glued onto the step in the
frames. Start at the bow, as shown in the photo. Use a quick-drying glue to fix them in place.
PHOTO 26: It is advisable to glue the bulwarks in the lower deck area using with just quick-drying glue.
PHOTOS 27–29: The aspect at the stern will be as shown. Also fit the bulwarks on the other side. Check out the close up view
of the joint at the bow. Retouch the joint if required.
PHOTO 30: Using the 4 x 15 strip, make up two portions (no. 28) and glue them to the inside of the bulwarks, covering the
gaps. Glue these parts into place using quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 31: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the lining strakes, using a sander, file or similar, file down the struts
and chamfer the edge of the frames, working from bow to stern.
PHOTO 32: Carry out the same operation as in the previous photo, but this time at the stern of the ship and working from stern
to bow.
PHOTO 33: Also sand down the whole length of the hull. The step of the frames, which serves to fit the bulwarks, must be flush
with these.
PHOTO 34: Before starting to line the hull you can soak one end of the lining strakes (no. 29) in water for at least an hour so
that the wood recovers its original elasticity. Start to line the hull under the bulwarks. First attach three lines of strake in direction
of the bottom of the hull. Use white glue and pins. Mark the first strake so that you will then know where to start to attach the
second hull lining (see photo 49).
PHOTOS 35 & 36: At the bow a maximum uncovered separation of 5 mm will be respected, for the later attachment of the stem
(no. 49). Also check out the stern.
PHOTOS 37–39: The lining is continued from the bottom in the direction of the centre of the hull. Fit as many strakes into place
as required until only one is required at the front (see photo 38). Now fit a strake centred on the hull. It may be that gaps remain
at the bow and stern, which can be later filled in using wedge-shaped pieces of strake.
PHOTOS 40–42: The gaps that remain at the centre of the hull are covered by pieces of strake sharpened at both ends. Use as
many of these wedge-shaped pieces as are necessary to complete this phase of the hull at the bow and stern, cutting them
from the unused ends of the strips.
PHOTO 43: Continue by lining the bulwarks. As you fit new strakes into place open up the holes in the sides so that they are not
hidden.
PHOTO 44: The strakes will have to cover all of the bulwarks, finally trimming off all of the excess that sticks out beyond them.
PHOTO 45: At the bow retouch the area where the bowsprit must be fitted. Use a rounded file for this operation, or a 10 mm drill
bit.
PHOTO 46: Glue the support (no. 30) to the stern. Line the bottom of the transom using the strakes (no. 29) and trim off any
excess. Having finished the lining process, file down the hull in order to level off all of the strips and eliminate the heads of the
pins.
PHOTO 47: Glue the counter bulwarks (no. 31) to both sides at the bottom of the area indicated, using a quick-drying glue.
Dampen these parts so that they gain in elasticity. Adjust them if necessary.
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