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PHOTO 48: At the stern glue the counter bulwarks (no. 32) into place, one on each side.
PHOTOS 49 & 50: Start to fit the second hull lining (no. 33) into place, lining the part behind the stern. The sides are lined
working from the position of the first strake, from the first lining of the hull, just below the bulwarks. The second hull lining follows
the same steps as the first. Use contact adhesive.
PHOTO 51: The area of the bulwarks is lined using the sheets (no. 34). Once more open up the holes in the sides and eliminate
any excess lining. When you have finished lightly sand down the surface to level it off.
PHOTO 52: Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes (no. 35). File down the strips and soak them in water, so that they
increase their elasticity at the bow. Fit the rubbing strakes to the hull and glue them into place, using a quick-drying glue, after
first checking out plan 1. Note that the second line of rubbing strakes is not continuous but has been cut into portions, leaving a
separation of approximately 4 mm between them.
PHOTO 53: Glue the base of the rubbing strakes (no. 36) and, onto these, the rubbing strakes (no. 37), which must be
previously sanded down, to leave the part facing out rounded off.
PHOTO 54: Open up the openings in the bulwarks and glue on the parts that are necessary to make up the frames (no. 38).
First glue the bases and then the sides. Using the strips (nos. 39 and 40) make up the limber boards. Using pieces of the strip
(no. 41) make up the curves of the limber boards, which must be sanded to round them off.
PHOTO 55: Make up the anchor davits from the parts (nos. 42 to 46) and the pins (A). Take the measurements from the model
on plan no. 2.
PHOTO 56: Open up the openings in the bulwarks and, firstly, fit the frames (no. 38). Adjust the openings to fit the davits, that
you made up in the last step, and glue them in place. Also fit the limber board (no. 47).
PHOTO 57: Using the strake (no. 29) fill in the top part of the davit until it is the same height as the bulwarks. Fit the limber
boards (no. 48) and make the cuts necessary to open up the frames in the bulwarks.
PHOTO 58: The stem (no. 49) must be glued into the 5 mm gap left for it. Adjust it to the same height as the entry of the
bowsprit. Check out plan no. 2. All of these parts van be dyed using a walnut coloured dye or varnish.
PHOTO 59: The stern post (no. 51) is glued onto the back part. If necessary, adjust the length so that its is at the same level as
the false keel. Then, continuing the line of the stem, glue two sections of the keel (no. 50) into place and the final section (no.
50).
PHOTO 60: Along the full length of the keel glue a strip (no. 53) similar to the first hull lining strips. The side strips have been
dyed with bitumen. If you want you can also paint them matt black. All of the paints used are matt acrylics for painting models.
PHOTO 61: Glue the stern transom (no. 54) centring it correctly and using a quick-drying glue. A hole must be made, parallel to
the stern post, with a diameter of approximately 6 mm, in order to attach the rudder. See plan no. 2 and subsequent photos.
PHOTO 62: Stain the top part of the hull a yellow colour and paint the rubbing strakes black. Glue the struts (nos. 55 and 56)
onto the stem and the hull. In order to curve the dolphins (nos. 57 and 58) dampen them and then glue them into place as
shown in the photo. Varnish the whole of the hull and the decks using colourless, satin-finish pore-filler varnish (Carefully read
the manufacturer's instructions for use). From this stage of assembly on varnish all of the wooden parts that have to be
incorporated to the ship before fitting them into place.
PHOTO 63: Glue the whole of the stem, the counter timbers (nos. 59 to 62) into place. The samsons (no. 63) are made up using
a 5 x 5 mm. strip, the rebates made using a round file. Glue the head-rails (no. 64) into place under the two Samson posts, and
against the counter timbers. Dampen these final parts and glue them into place using a quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 64: Glue the head-rails (no. 65) into place underneath the davit and the counter timbers. Glue the brackets (no. 66) into
place. These parts must be painted cream, the same as part above (no. 64).
PHOTO 65: Glue the battening (no. 67) onto the hull and two more onto the counter timbers as a support. Onto this glue the
battening (no. 68) and the central battening (no. 69).
PHOTO 66: The battening (no. 70) is done transversally, leaving some openings for ropes to pass through. See plan no. 2.
PHOTO 67: Glue two painted hawse covers (no. 71) and make two 2 mm diameter holes for the anchor ropes to enter. The
head-rail bulwarks (no. 72) are glued onto the head-rails.
PHOTO 68: Using a round file make up the samson posts (73 & 74). Use a fast-drying glue to attach them in the oppositions
indicated in the photos and in Plan No. 2. Paint the bottom inboard side of the bulwarks red.
PHOTO 69: Make up and attach the hatch frames (76 & 77) to the quarter deck.
PHOTO 70: Adjust the rubbing strakes so that you can fit the bases of the quarter galleries (77) and then fit the top section (78),
above them, and the gallery windows (79) in between. Paint the interior part of the hull black, in order to provide depth to the
windows. Also decorate the parts (77 & 78) before fitting them in place.
PHOTO 71: Using the 2x2 mm strips make up the frames for the gallery windows. Soak the strips in water so that they can be
easily bent into shape.
PHOTO 72-76: Make up the gratings (82), ensuring that all of the strips are correctly aligned, and then glue them into place
using fast-drying glue. From these assemblies then make up the different hatch gratings for the decks. Plan No. 2 indicates the
different sizes to be made up. Cut out the portions of grating required and glue them into place on the central deck. Mark out the
perimeters for the gratings (8) with lengths of the strips (83, 84 & 85). Cover the hatch with lengths of the strip (29), similar to the
lining strakes. Frame the edges of the deck using the edging strips (86 & 87).
PHOTO 77: Fix the bell (89) using an eyebolt "B" to the supporting structure (88) and glue it into place as shown in the photo.
Now glue the four columns (90) onto the hatch and insert the four eyebolts "B" into the top of each column, as shown. The rope
(91) serves as a hand-rope. Insert the eyebolts "B" into the hatch cover and attach the rings "H", as shown.
PHOTO 78: Make up the rudder blade with the parts as sown in the photo. Use cutting pliers to adjust the size of the. Make up
the hinge pins (94) using 1.5 mm diameter brass wire. Attach the rudder to the hull by pinning the hinges into place.
PHOTO 79: Paint the cleats (95) black and glue them into place on the anchor davit, as shown. Make up two samson posts (96)
with their cross-rods (97) and glue them onto the deck, as shown in Plan No. 2.
PHOTO 80: Glue the frames (98) and covers (99) to the gun port openings in the hull. If you want you can decorate these parts
in a different colour.
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