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Bend the pushrods as required so that they do not bind at full
servo travel in either direction.
If you are using the "Brick", cut off the Z-bend, de-burr the cut
end and form a 90º bend about 6 mm long in the end. Fit the
pushrod keeper 67 in the servo output arm from above (2nd
hole from inside) and fit the angled rod end from underneath.
Secure the rod with a drop of glue.
Using a pair of pliers, bend the rudder pushrod 71 to the
shape shown in Figs. 28-30. Slip the pushrods into the
pushrod connectors at the tail end, set the servos and control
surfaces to neutral, and tighten the clamping screws in the
pushrod connectors.
Servo version: install the receiver in the appropriate position
using the Velcro tape 65 Fig. 31. The speed controller can
also be secured using Velcro tape, positioned to one side of
the flight battery; this applies to both versions.
Completing the wing
Preparing the drive motors
The first step is to solder the suppressor capacitors to the
motors.
Glue the propellers to the motor shafts using 5-minute epoxy.
Caution: don't use cyano, as this reacts with the material
used for the spinners. Apply a little 5-minute epoxy to the
spinner on the point of a pin, then push the propeller and
spinner onto the motor shaft. We recommend pushing a pin
through the spinner from the inside beforehand, so that the
trapped air can escape when you fit the spinner on the shaft.
Solder the power cables to the motors, taking care to maintain
correct polarity (red to positive). If you have no experience of
soldering, ask one of your fellow-modellers for assistance.
The motors are designed to be glued directly to the motor
pods. First apply plenty of cyano to the joint surfaces in the
motor pods, then wipe it off again on a piece of cloth. This
produces a coupling layer to which the epoxy will adhere
well; glue the motors in place using 5-minute epoxy. We
recommend that you thicken the epoxy with glass powder or
chopped cotton beforehand. Take care - don't get glue in the
motors!
Deploy the power leads as shown. You will notice that the
wings are now joined permanently by the motor cables. This
offers the advantage that you cannot now lose one wing ...
but seriously, with this arrangement you only have one plug
and socket connection, which means lower power loss and
less fiddling about when assembling the model.
Installing the wing joiner system
Apply cyano to the contact surfaces of both wing panels 4+5
and the joiner well covers 6+7, and also to the support ribs
28-29, then wipe it off again immediately. This forms a
coupling layer which ensures a reliable glued joint with 5-
minute epoxy.
Seal one end of each outer sleeve 48 with a piece of tape to
prevent glue being forced inside.
Fit the outer sleeve 49 on the wing joiner 48, then fit the
support ribs on it. Trial-fit this assembly in the wing, then
apply plenty of 5-minute epoxy, fit the joiner assembly in the
wing, and glue the joiner well cover in place at the same
time.
10
Caution: allow the resin to cure completely before pulling
the wing joiner out again.
Repeat the procedure with the other wing panel.
The next step is to glue the guide sleeves 44+45 to one of the
two wing panels as shown in Fig. 37. Glue a sleeve 45 + 44
Figs 26-27
at the front, and a sleeve 45 at the rear using cyano.
Initial assembly, checking the working systems
Fix the tailplane to the model using two rubber bands, see
Fig. 38. Join the wings using the wing joiner.
Fix the wing to the fuselage using the latching pieces 42 and
the M5 plastic screws 50+51.
Final assembly
There are three possible positions for the flight battery,
depending on the load the model is carrying and the battery
size (battery weight).
1. 2 x 3 cells plus 1 across (7 cells) or 2 x 4 cells (8 cells)
below the false floor 22.
2. Same cell arrangement above the false floor, especially if
Fig. 32
the camera is installed pointing down.
3. 4 x 2 cells (8 cells) right at the rear of the fuselage pod.
This arrangement is necessary for CG reasons if you fit a
fairly heavy load in the cabin area.
Test mode
Set the transmitter throttle control (for the motors) to the OFF
position. Switch the transmitter on and connect the flight
battery to the speed controller in the model. It is essential
Fig. 33
that your controller features a BEC circuit (receiver power
supply from flight pack).
Now switch on the motors briefly and check the direction of
rotation of the propellers. Be sure to hold the model firmly
when running the motors, and remove any loose lightweight
objects behind the model beforehand.
Caution: even small motors and propellers represent an
injury risk.
Control surface travels
To achieve balanced control response the travel of the control
surfaces must be set correctly. The rudder should move about
25 mm to either side of centre (measured at the trailing edge).
The elevator should move up (stick back) by about 12 mm
and down (stick forward) by about 10 mm.
Balancing
To fly stably your "Movie Star" must be balanced at a particular
point, just like every other aircraft. Assemble your model
Fig. 34
completely, ready to fly, with the flight battery in the fuselage.
Mark a point on the underside of the wing 100-110 mm back
from the root leading edge. This is the Centre of Gravity.
Support the model at this point on both sides, and the model
should balance level. Correction is possible by adjusting the
position of the flight pack. The easiest and most accurate
method of checking the CG is to use the MULTIPLEX CG
gauge (Order No. 69 3054).
The finishing touch
A multi-colour decal sheet 13 is supplied in the kit. Cut out
the individual placards and emblems and apply them to the
model in the arrangement shown in the kit box illustration -
or any other scheme you like.
Pre-flight preparations
Figs. 35-36
Wait for a day with as little breeze as possible before carrying
out the first flight. The evening hours are often the calmest
part of the day.
Figs. 39+40.
Fig. 41
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