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Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the saw blade.
•
Hold the workpiece with one hand firmly against the fence. Use a vice or G-clamp to secure the workpiece whenever
possible. See Figure 32.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the "keep hands clear" zone, at least 80 mm
from the blade. Never cut freehand (without holding the workpiece against the fence). The blade could jam in the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
•
Before turning on the saw, try a dummy run to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made.
•
Hold the saw handle firmly, press the lock button in, then squeeze the trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade
to reach maximum speed.
•
Slowly lower the blade through the workpiece. See Figure 32.
•
Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of the workpiece. Wait until the
electric brake has stopped the blade turning before removing the workpiece from the mitre table.
Fig. 32
A. G-CLAMP
B. 90° CROSSCUT
12.7
BEVELS
See Figures 33 and 34.
Bevels are cut across the grain of the workpiece with the blade at an angle to the fence and the mitre table. Bevel cuts are
made with the mitre table at 0° and the saw arm set at an angle between 0° and 45°.
Fig. 33
A. INDEX
B. BEVEL CLAMPING KNOB
C. SAW ARM MOUNTING
D. BEVEL SCALE
12.8
CUTTING BEVELS WITH YOUR MITRE SAW:
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Pull out the locking pin and raise the saw arm fully up.
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Raise the mitre table clamping lever.
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Turn the mitre table until the index is aligned with 0° on the mitre scale.
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Push the mitre table clamping lever back down.
NOTE: 0° is clearly marked on the scale. The mitre table can be located at one of the positive stops on the mitre table
frame.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, always push the mitre table clamping lever back down before cutting.
If the mitre table is not clamped, it may move during cutting.
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Slacken the bevel clamping knob and tilt the saw arm to the left to the required angle.
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The angle can be set from 0° to 45°.
•
Align the index with the required angle.
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Once the saw arm has been set to the required angle, tighten the bevel clamping knob.
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Put the workpiece flat on the mitre table with one edge firmly against the fence. If the workpiece is warped, put the
convex side against the fence. If the concave side of a workpiece is put against the fence, the kerf could pinch the blade
and jam it near the end of the cut. See Figures 39 and 40.
•
When cutting long pieces of timber or mouldings, support the far end(s) of the workpiece on a stand or workbench level
with the saw table.
•
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the saw blade.
•
Hold the workpiece with one hand firmly against the fence. Use a vice or G-clamp to secure the workpiece whenever
possible. See Figure 34.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the "keep hands clear" zone, at least 80 mm
from the blade. Never cut freehand (without holding the workpiece against the fence). The blade could jam in the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
•
Before turning on the saw, try a dummy run to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made.
•
Hold the saw handle firmly, press the lock button in, then squeeze the trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade
to reach maximum speed.
•
Slowly lower the blade through the workpiece. See Figure 34.
•
Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of the workpiece. Wait until the
electric brake has stopped the blade turning before removing the workpiece from the mitre table.
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