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4. from the bottom between the discs of thread tensioning
unit 15,
5. from top to bottom through hole 113,
6. through thread guide 14,
7. in the hole 114 of the thread displacer fig. 4, and
8. abt. 8 cm under the needle guide 9 to the rear.
Flap in again the double roller foot.
Needle and thread
Only use needle system 328 No. 180.
Please take as needle thread: synthetic yarn max. 10/4-fold
as gimp cord: Ritza up to 1 mm or synthetic thread up to 18/4-fold.
It Is advisable to use always a thinner gimp cord compared with
the needle thread.
For quilting-seams on shoes no cotton threads should be used as
gimp cords, since they could easily rub through.
Shoes with heat treatment during production should be sewed
with a nylon thread as gimp cord and a cotton thread as needle
thread.
Never use a cotton thread as gimp cord, if cotton thread is also
used as needle thread.
If the materials are of different quality, care has to be taken that
the thread tensions will be adapted accordingly.
Adjusting the stitch length
The 'honeycomb stitch' can be sewed only with forward stitch.
Therefore always set the stitch adjusting lever 29, fig. 1, from the
0-indicator downwards. The best seam is obtained with a stitch
length of 6 mm.
Changing the thread tension
Check the seam after sewing a short length.
Are the needle threads on top too much drawn together, the
needle thread tension is either too loose or the gimp cord
tension too tight.
For increased needle thread tension turn the tensioning nuts 22
and 24, fig. 1, to the right.
For reduced gimp cord tension turn the tensioning nuts 15 and 26
to the left.
Please note that tension nuts 15 and 26 must only be turned very
slightly, sometimes almost not at all.
This instruction is very important to you, otherwise the seam
obtained will be completely wrong. The correct seam is shown
in fig. 5.
If the materials used are of different quality, care must be taken
that the thread tensions will have to be adapted accordingly.
Please also note that the tension springs of needle thread tensions
22 and 24, fig. 1, are stronger than usual.
Cleaning and oiling
Proceed as described in the elementary instructions, however, give
an extra lubrication to the oiling points indicated by arrows in
1
fig. 1 and 3.
■ Supplementary instructions for mechanics
The following text describes the setting of the honeycomb
stitching device. The correct basic adjustment of the machine is
taken for granted.
Should there by.any troubles while sewing this honeycomb stitch,
it is advisable to sew first of all a normal cording seam, in order
to see whether the fault Is due to the basic adjustment of the
machine or if the honeycomb stitching device needs to be set.
Therefore when setting the honeycomb stitching device proceed in
the following way:
1. Unscrew the covering sheets of the toothed belt 114, fig. 1, and
bearing 115.
2. Move handwheel forward (towards the operator) until the
thread take-up lever has reached its highest position.
3. Check by ruler the 'vanishing line' (in height) of the toothed
belt wheels 116 and 117, fig. 6, the top edges of which have
to be in one line.
Correction to be effected as follows:
Slacken screws 118. Remove shaft 119 accordingly. Tighten
screws 118.
4. Remove toothed belt 114.
Turn shaft 119, fig. 4, to the extent that holders 121 and 122
stand together and bolts 123 and 124, fig. 3, have effected the
maximum way towards the outside.
5. Now turn the toothed belt wheel 117, fig. 6, in such a way that
the screw 118 points directly to the front (towards the operator)
having the other one to Its left.
Put on again toothed belt 120 in this position.
This setting has so far been a presetting. The following
adjustments will thus be easier for you.
6. Slacken screws 121, fig. 7, and turn thread displacer 12 in
such a way that the top of the tube falls in one line with the
right-hand edge of screw 124. Slightly tighten screws 121.
7. Turn handwheel slowly and observe whether the thread guide
tube 12 freely moves along the needle bar without touching it.
The clearance between needle bar (needle clutch) and top of
tube must not exceed 0.2 mm.
Correction is to be effected in the following way:
Move thread displacer 12 in the holder 125 accordingly
(and observe the setting as mentioned under item 6). Tighten
screws 121.
8. Turn handwheel and check whether both tubes intersect
exactly in the middle of the two needles, while the thread
take-up lever is lifted and the thread displacer 12 and 6, fig 7.
is in the extreme rear position (pins 123 and 124 must
completely appear). Fig. 8.
Correction as follows:
Slacken screws 122, fig. 7. Move thread displacer 12 in the
holder 127 correspondingly. Slightly tighten screws 122.
9. Move handwheel and check whether both thread displacing
tubes 12 and 6, fig. 7, move freely at crossing with no more
play than 0.5 mm. Continue to turn the handwheel and check
whether both thread displacing tubes maintain the same play
of 0.5 mm not only at the crossing but throughout the entire
movement.
Correct as follows:
Turn thread displacer 12, fig. 7, or move it to the front or back.
Tighten screws 122.
10. Place lift lever upwards. Move handwheel until thread
displacers 12 and 6, fig. 7, stand above the roller foot rolls,
in which position the thread displacers must not touch the
rolls.
Correct in the following way:
Slacken screws 128, fig. 4. Adjust set ring 129 upwards to the
extent that about 1 mm play is left between the set ring and the
cast iron wall of the sewing machine. Tighten screws 128.
Kindly note that:
The thread displacers 12 and 6, fig. 7, are different and therefore
marked with letters on the reverse.
Thread guide tube 12 = 1
Thread guide tube
6 = E
This will avoid upleasant confusions when the parts are
exchanged for taken out.
Supplément au mode d'emploi et aux
instructions pour le mécanicien
Vous trouverez les instructions pour l'emploi de la cl. 104 WS-102 S
dans le chapitre "supplément au mode d'emploi" tandis que
l'ajustage et le réglage de la machine sont décrits dans le
supplément aux instructions pour le mécanicien.
Supplément au mode d'emploi
Vu que cette sous-classe correspond en majeure partie à l'emploi
de base de la classe 104, nous avons Indiqué ici les modifications
relativement au mode d'emploi principal. Les Illustrations
supplémentaires se trouvent au verso de ces Instructions.
Eléments de conduite 104 WS-102 S
1
Guides-fils pour les fils pour la formation des rayons
2 Vis de réglage pour la pression du pied
3 Cheville porte-bobine
4 Volant à main
5 Glissière droite
6 Dispositif pour la mise en place du fil (E)
7 Plaque à aiguille
8 Longuette pour nervures (interchangeable)
9 Guide-aiguilles
10 Griffe
11
Double pied à roulettes
12 Dispositif pour la mise en place du fil (I)
13 Glissière gauche
14 Guide pour le fil pour la formation des rayons
15 Tension du fil pour la formation des rayons
16 Guide pour le fil d'aiguille
17 Cheville pour le guidage du fil d'aiguille
18 Tension du fil d'aiguille
19 Ressort de tension de fil
20 Tendeur de fil
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