Climbing Technology CARVED CHOCKS & ANCHOR CAM Guia De Inicio Rapido página 5

The instruction manual for this device consists of general and specific instructions,
both must be carefully read and understood before use. Attention! This leaflet
shows the specific instruction only.
SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ANCHOR CAMS/CARVED CHOCKS.
This note contains the necessary information for a correct use of the following
product/s: chocks and frictional anchors for mountaineering and rock climbing.
1) FIELD OF APPLICATION.
This product is a personal protective device (P.P.E.) against falls from height; it is
compliant with the Regulation (EU) 2016/425. EN 12270:2013 - Mountain-
eering equipment / Chocks. EN 12276:2013 - Mountaineering equipment /
Frictional anchors.
2) NOTIFIED BODIES. Refer to the legend in the general instructions (paragraph
9 / table D): M1; M6; N1.
3) NOMENCLATURE (Fig. 2). A) Body. B) Wire. C) Cam. D) Axle. E) Mobile
trigger. F) Tape sling. G) Loop for connector. H) Label.
4) MARKING.
Numbers/letters without caption: refer to the legend in the general instructions
(paragraph 5).
4.1 - General (Fig. 2). Indications: 1; 4; 6; 7; 8; 11; 12; 13; 30) Minimum
holding force (S) of the frictional anchors; 31) Minimum holding force (S) of the
chocks in the A (Fig. 3.1) and B (Fig. 3.2) position: e.g. 10 / 9 kN (A = 10
kN; B = 9 kN);
32) Size.
4.2 - Traceability (Fig. 2). Indications:T1; T3; T8.
5) COMPATIBILITY.
This product can only be used in combination with CE-marked equipment: moun-
taineering equipment such as harnesses (EN 12277), ropes (EN 892), slings
(EN 566) etc. Attention! Only use mountaineering EN 12275 connectors in the
connector loop.
6) EN 12270 SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS.
Chocks are non-adjustable devices intended to be wedged or jammed in cracks
or cavities within the rock; they are able to support a load thanks to their shape
and orientation in the rock. They are produced in several sizes, in order to opti-
mize their use for different placements (Fig. 1). Attention! Make sure that the crack
you are going to use for the placement is solid; that there is not dirt, it is not wet
or icy and has appropriate dimensions (Fig. 3).
7) EN 12276 SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS.
Frictional anchors are self-expanding devices that can be placed in a parallel-sid-
ed crack and support a load, thanks to the friction between their cams and the
rock. They are produced in several sizes, in order to optimize their use for different
placements: the table shows the operating range for each model, in mm (Fig. 1).
The operational range (O.R. - Fig. 1) is the span of widths for which a holding
force at least equal to the minimum holding force - as indicated on the same fric-
tional anchors - is guaranteed. Attention! Make sure that the crack you are going
to use for the placement is solid; that there is not dirt, it is not wet or icy and has
appropriate dimensions (Fig. 4).
7.1 - Lubrication. If necessary, use spray paraffin-based grease to lubricate all
moving parts. Remove any excess lubricant.
8) EN 12270 / EN 12276 WARNINGS.
Even when used correctly, the level of protection provided by chocks and frictional
anchors depends on their holding force and on the specific placement (Fig. P /
paragraph 8.1). The holding force depends on the type of rock, its surface condi-
tion and on the direction of the shock load in the event of a fall. The holding force
can also be influenced by the presence of moisture, ice, mud or sand on the rock.
Attention! During use pay attention to any possible contact with sharp edges
because it could damage the device and jeopardize its strength (Fig. 3.3-4.10).
Attention! While in use, keep in mind both the length of the fall and the stretch
of the rope in order to avoid any collision with the ground or other obstacles in
the event of a fall.
8.1 - Protection Provided. Table P provides guidance on the protection offered by
chocks and frictional anchors: P1) Holding force S; P2) At a stance (A=anchor);
P3) As a running belay (A=anchor); P4) S ≥ 20 kN; P5/P6) If used correctly, suf-
ficiently strong to withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall; P7)
20 > S ≥ 12 kN; P8) If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand the highest
conceivable forces generated in a fall; P9) If used correctly, sufficiently strong to
withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic
belay is in use and effective; P10) 12 > S ≥ 7 kN; P11) Not recommended for
use on its own, since it will not withstand the highest conceivable force. It may
be used as one component of a belay system where the force of a fall is shared
between the components; P12) If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand typ-
ical forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic belay is in use and effective.
It cannot be relied upon to withstand the highest forces that could be generated in
a fall; P13) S < 7 kN; P14) Only to be used as part of a multicomponent belay
system where the force of a fall will be shared between several components; P15)
Even if used correctly, and with a dynamic belay in use, it cannot be relied upon
Climbing Technology by Aludesign S.p.A. via Torchio 22
24034 Cisano B.sco BG ITALY
ENGLISH
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to withstand typical forces generated in a fall. Wherever possible, it should be
backed up with one or more devices of similar strength, in such a way as to share
the load; P16) General; P17) The behaviour of a chock or a frictional anchor in
the rock, when dynamically loaded, is not fully predictable. At least two inde-
pendent anchor points should always be used, each of them capable of providing
protection as per above.
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