retain very smooth edges and prolong the life of your knives. This procedure
unlike conventional sharpeners will give you extra ordinary sharp knives every
day while removing very little metal.
FOR MEATS, FIELD DRESSING AND HIGHLY FIBROUS MATE-
RIALS
For butchering, field dressing or cutting fibrous materials you may find it advan-
tageous to sharpen in Stage 1 – followed directly by Stage 3. This will leave
sharpened microflutes along the facets near each side of the edge that will
assist in the cutting of such materials.
To prepare this type edge on either your Euro/American knives or contem-
porary Asian knives, sharpen in Stage 1 until a burr is developed along the
edge. Then move directly to Stage 3 and make two or three pairs of pulls there.
To preserve this type of edge, when the knife needs resharpening, use Stage
3 for only one or two resharpenings. Then go back to Stage 1 for one pull
in each of the left and right slots and then return directly to Stage 3. Do not
oversharpen in Stage 1.
FOR GAME AND FISH
The optimum edge for cooked poultry generally can be obtained by using
Stage 2 followed by Stage 3. For raw poultry, Stage 1 followed by Stage 3.
For filleting fish use a thin but sturdy blade sharpened in Stages 2 and 3.
PROCEDURE FOR
SHARPENING SERRATED BLADES
Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a
series of pointed teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting.
Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in The Graef Model CX125 .
However, use only Stage 3 which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and
develop microblades along the edge of these teeth. Generally five to ten pairs
of alternating pulls in Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull more
pulls will be needed. If the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use
make one fast pull (2-3 seconds for an 8" blade) in each of the right and left
slots of Stage 2, then make a series of pulls in Stage 3, alternating right and left
slots. Excessive use of Stage 2 will remove more metal along the edge then is
necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.
Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear
to be as "sharp" as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like
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